Mainsheet setup and Purchase System

[klb67]

46100 is it. I checked my order history on me to confirm. Where and how I sail I've never seen the need for a toplift.

[DigitalMechanic]

Thank KLB! It appears that block (Ronstan 46100) and the Harken 57mm Harken auto ratchet I want are not sold at the local West Marine. I will have to order online and wait. Looks like it will have to be a project for next weekend.

I see you upgraded the mainsheet purchase system to 4:1. That was one of the original questions that I had, as I was considering doing that as well. Do you think that it is a big improvement over the original 3:1?

[klb67]

Shop a local sailing shop if you have one. Otherwise order online - you will pay top dollar at WorstMarine. Use D&R if you can. Otherwise I've bought from p2marine, defender, APS, others.

I like my set up, but this is my first bigger boat, so I don't know if there are better set ups. I like the stand up base I have and the harken cam. My local sailing shop before it closed recommended my mainsheet set up.

[DigitalMechanic]

So I was able to flip the cam cleat. Here are some pics. I think I will need to add a fairlead in front, as it appears that the sheet gets stuck (and will chafe) in the little gap between the bottom corners of the block but on top of the cleat.

[DigitalMechanic]

Thanks KLB. For the most part Worst Marine has only got the money I have had to give them so far. Sometimes you just need to have a part in hand to decide if it is the right one. I have bought most of my stuff through Rudy at D&R (a whole bunch of stuff actually, lol). I think the original fiddle block on the centerboard trunk is going to work out with the cam cleat flipped (after a fairlead is added), so I think I will try and move forward with that for now. This will allow me to shift the boat budget to work on other functional things (like the jib sheeting, vang, etc). I have prioritized funds in the following order... safety, then functionality/ergonomics, then cosmetic. I am at the beginning of the functional/ergonomics stage, so I will try and get the most bang for my buck and then come back and nit pick. I am sure that I will circle back around to changing out the fiddle block though in the future, so again thank you for sharing your advice, experiences, and pictures of you boat. I really like your setup and glad it is working out great. I may copy it in the future

[GreenLake]

Sorry, I forgot to ask... What size blocks on the jib car? 40mm?

I've used 55mm because of the fact that my jib sheet is oversized, so I needed the larger one for the line diameter. Would imagine that if the line fits a 40mm, that size would work as well.

if the 40mm makes you choose between auto and manual, take the auto. As I keep mentioning, I never bothered with any other setting and things just work.

[GreenLake]

Shop a local sailing shop if you have one. Otherwise order online - you will pay top dollar at WorstMarine. Use D&R if you can. Otherwise I've bought from p2marine, defender, APS, others.

Generally agree, but I also check for online suppliers based on shipping distance. There are some good "local" shops that will ship and if they are in your region, you don't have to wait as long or pay too much in shipping.

[GreenLake]

Interesting solution with the cam reversal.

Let us know after next year's season how things worked out in practice.

[DigitalMechanic]

I am just worried about trying to mate up a fairlead to the back of the cleat. Without, the sheet can get pinched in the corner at the top of the cleat between it and the fiddle block. The fairlead will keep the line from ever getting in that corner. If you look at the bottom picture I posted, there is a nut used as a spacer to allow the clearance of the top of the teeth of the cleat. That is what creates the opportunity for the mainsheet to get int there. If nothing else it will cause chafe on the sheet. Worst case it will jam when easing the sheet. The problem would be easy to solve if the fairlead needed to go on the side of the cleat that one is typically placed, however in this case it is backwards. So, I will have to find something that comes out an inch or so from the cleat. Looking but have not found anything yet.

[GreenLake]

You could use anything to make a shim that closes off that corner.

#1 solution would be to take a sheet of metal or plastic and cut out a piece to use instead of that nut.

#2 solution would be to just put a dab of "JB Weld" on the bottom of the piece that looks like an L. Best when disassembled and file it flat to fit.

either solution would close the gap w/o any fancy additions.

A more fancy solution would be to fold some sheet metal in a square "hat with brim" pattern. (Looks like back to back L with connecting flat piece). Then make the "brim, pieces extend backwards into the space where the nuts are. That way, you can drill them and use the bolts to hold everything, but the "hat" part could extend a bit forward of the block. When you pull sideways on the sheet, the projecting sides of the "hat" would give better leverage to turn the fiddle (and the flanges that you are using to bolt it will help close the gap). Let me know if you can puzzle out this description.

[DigitalMechanic]

Greenlake, you are creative

So, this is what I came up with...

[GreenLake]

Greenlake, you are creative

So, this is what I came up with...

And so are you. this looks like it may work.

[DigitalMechanic]

It certainly feels like it will from a dry test. I will take it out on the water for the real test this weekend. Thanks again for all the help. This ended up being a $20 project vs $200 project if it all works out as expected. I also ordered the 55mm Harken "Ratchomatic" #2626 for the boom (staying at 3:1 for now). I will report back on the performance of everything once tested.

[jeadstx]

Thanks DigitalMechanic, that looks like a good approach to fixing that problem. I'm going to have to look into that as well.

John

[DigitalMechanic]

Thanks John! In case ordering offline...

Parts List:
Harken X-Treme Angle Fairlead (#375) - http://www.harken.com/productdetail.aspx?sku=375

Ronstan Medium Wedge Kit (#RF5412) - http://www.ronstan.com/marine/product.asp?ProdNo=RF5412
Just flip and use both wedges to make it flat again. This lifts the existing Stainless Steel cleat high enough the clear the raised part of the fairlead's plastic bottom.

I believe size #10 Stainless Steel bolts and nuts (2 regular nuts for the spacers and 2 lock nuts on the bottom of everything) was what fit through the cleat.

While I had it apart, I also put a wire brush on the drill and knocked any surface rust off. The PO used non-marine SS hardware, so it had leaked its rust onto the surrounding surface of the fiddle block and cleat.