DaySailer.org Forum

HI. I am restoring a 1981 Spindrift DS1. I have been reading the posts about rudders and from what I understand, in the original design, the only thing that maintains the rudder in an up or down position is just the friction between the rudder blade and the rudder cheeks caused by tightening the bolt that goes through both. Am I correct? On my rudder blade it looks like a bungee cord was added to keep the rudder in the down position. I don't see where it connects, but it was probably wrapped around the tiller. The rudder blade is very loose. There is almost 1/4 inch of space between the rudder blade and the inside of the cheeks. Am I missing a washer or bushing? Thanks much.

You're right...friction was the only thing keeping the rudder either up or down. Originally, the rudder should be touching the rudder cheeks, but a previous own may have thinned the blade down or replaced it with a thinner blade. I would suggest making a couple of washers about 3 inches in diameter out of nylon or other plastic material. I've used thin cutting boards in the past. Also uphaul and downhaul lines will help keep the rudder in an up or down position. You'll find posts on this site on how to do this.

Good luck restoring your Spindrift DS 1.

Washers made from cutting boards and the like sound like a good idea for keeping the blade down, but I've had no luck, personally keeping the rudder up by any other means than a line or bungee.

I'm not necessarily telling you to do this, but of all DS owners I know, the one who seems to know the most and is most successful at racing once told me that a small diameter hole drilled through the "cheek," through the blade, and out the opposing "cheek" is the most effective way to keep the blade where you want it. You insert a small, soft piece of dowel (sized so as to fit snugly) through the hole, thus securing the two pieces of the rudder together, but capable of sacrificing itself in the event the rudder hits an unexpected object.

I guess it depends on your sailing proclivities as to whether this is a good idea. I know for me, even though the hole is there, I don't do this because it means I have to remove the rudder before pulling the boat out of the water. But I'm sure that this method does keep the blade in an exact place with no wondering if the blade is down all the way or not.

Just a thought.

You are correct about the friction design. I've been happy with it, and used it again in my own rudder construction. (Winds here are rarely suitable for extended planing, so that may make a difference). Using a bungee as downhaul is an "aftermarket" fix, and a useful one. The bungee would allow at least some "give" were the rudder to strike a submerged object. (If you have isolated submerged rocks where you sail, you'd know how unerringly any boat will "locate" them).

Another alternative is a fixed line ending in a cleat that will release under pressure. I don't have a link, there are some older posts that do. There's one design of V-cleat that will let go if the pull exceeds a threshold.

I remove the rudder before pulling out. Never occurred to me to try it differently, just something that works for me and I don't think about it any more.

I have both uphaul and downhaul lines on my rudder, but my rudder has also been modified for sailing in the shallow waters of the Texas coast. Several places where I have beached the boat there is mud. One year on the Texas 200 I cracked the rudder head because the blade jammed in the mud while pushing the boat off the beach. My rudder head is now modified to allow 90% of the blade to be raised out of the water.

Greenlake mentions an auto release cleat for the downhaul. Duckworks sells this one. http://www.duckworksbbs.com/hardware/cl ... /index.htm It would probably mount on the underside of the tiller. I have been thinking of getting one of these for my downhaul. Currently I use a bugee with a clam cleat with fairlead to provide give in case I hit something.

John

I currently use a couple of lines to secure the rudder in the up and down positions. Each is fed to a clam cleat that will release it if I struck something.
On another boat, with a kick-up rudder, I drilled trough the head and rudder and inserted a nylon bolt to keep the rudder down. I think I used a toilet seat bolt. WhenI did strike something, the nylon sheared off.

My 1994 Sunfish Daysailer has a line from the front top of the rudder that goes up through the gudgeon piviots and ties off to a cleat on the top of the tiller. Nothing on the boat was ever modified as far as I know so this was probably original.

Make sure to use autorelease cleats or bungee cord. Otherwise, the potential for serious damage on grounding.