DaySailer.org Forum

If anyone has any installation advise for a mid boom traveller please help.

I have one to sell.

Please contact me at your convenience.
508-922-0129

Thank you.

I scrapped the original Crosby rig and replaced it with a mid-boom with 4:1 purchase. I think I used a double and a double with a becket

Why would you even consider a mid boom traveler versus an easier and less expensive split-tail bridle mainsheet?

My problem with the Crosby rig was the lack of purchase. I calculated it once and it was less than 2:1. You can rig a 3:1 or 4:1 on the existing bridle, but the bridle itself kept getting caught on the outboard.

Moving it to midboom eliminated the problem with the engine, but then increase the purchase necessary since the lever arm was half as long. One pound pull at the end of the boom requires 2 pounds mid boom.

The 4:1 mid boom is comfortable, be be aware the mainsheet is much longer. It is the force x distance law that you cannot escape.

As for cost, I do not recall. They are standard Harken blocks.

A 1:1 split-tail bridle mainsheet with a 12:1 ratchet block with a on/off switch on the mainsheet base and an 12:1 auto-ratchet block on the boom directly above the mainsheet base will give you significantly more purchase than a 3:1 or 4:1 mid boom traveler with significantly less mainsheet to deal with and without the traveler across the boat to impede fore/aft movement in the boat.
Another benefit of less mainsheet allows for easier boat handling in changing conditions and safer maneuvering.
As far as fouling your outboard motor then shock cord retractors can be inserted into the split-tails of the bridle mainsheet to hold them away from the motor while slack.

Mike,

On a split tail bridle mainsheet, what lengths would you recommend for the mainsheet line and the tails? Annapolis Performance sailing will do the splicing for $25, but they need to know the line lengths since they don't have anything on file for the Daysailer.

Thanks,

Alan

Tell APS that you want a Snipe Mainsheet with slightly different measurements! My split-tails are made using 1/8" Spectra with a 1" Eye at the ends that are 4'4" long spliced into a 3/8" diameter Mainsheet that is 18'4" long.
I'm on my third mainsheet in seven years as the ratchet block on the mainsheet base slowly chews-up the mainsheet and since you can't swap end for end they only last half as long as a regular mainsheet.

Hey Alan,
The last one I had made was 51" for each tail with 19' of sheet.

Steve

Thanks, Mike and Steve. I looked at a whole bunch of NACR photos, and it looks like every boat has a split-tail bridle. That's got to be a sign.

There are many advantages to the split tail but you need a good high purchase vang to go with it. Quick responsive sheeting, auto center of the boom, easier to roll tack, less mainsheet to reel in when rounding the corners. Con's, when it blows you need extra arm strength, when you jibe you need to give the main sheet a quick tug to keep it off the corners.

Steve

Steve Lowry hasn't been wrestling with a 2:1 Thistle Mainsheet for the past thirty-five years so his comment about needing "extra arm strength" might be true for some but not for me!
The 20:1 Boomvang on #2772 BUBBA helps to control most all of the vertical load and so the only load left is lateral with both ratchet blocks taking care of that.
Most boats at the last three NACR's I've attended are still sporting the adjustable McLaughlin Traveler with either a 2:1 or 3:1 between the aft end of the boom and traveler whereas the split-tail bridle does away with the clutter and weight of the adjustable Traveler.
The split-tail bridle's 1/8" Spectra tails that form the "V" get sheeted several inches into the aft block on the boom going upwind forcing the boom to centerline that isn't achievable with the McLaughlin traveler.
KISS is exactly what a split-tail bridle mainsheet achieves allowing me to focus on the more important things like keeping my head out of the boat and looking around the race course!
The 1/8" Spectra tails are fastened to the aft deck using eye-straps through-bolted to the original raised bases for the original mainsheet blocks near the aft end of the wood cockpit skirt. I haven't had a problem with the tails hooking on the corners of the transom rather I've had the tails catch under the tail end of the wood cockpit skirts a couple of times.