DaySailer.org Forum

I got the new (to me) boat in the water last night.

This was really just a test run to see if it leaked, get the sails up, and see if the centerboard comes down, etc.

As soon as we launched it filled up with about 3 inches of water at the deepest part, and didn't really gain anymore.

Regardless of the water we launched the main and jib and tacked our way about for a little bit. The maneuverability around the big boats and docks was nice.



So tonight I filled up the boat and watched for leaks...2 questions

1. Should this be plugged from the inside? As is the water drains down to in between the hull and ultimately drains out the lowers transom plug when it is removed.


2. How does the self bailer work? I have been reading up on it and it sounds like there is supposed to be a float ball/valve in it. Mine is more like OPEN or CLOSED. Closed it looks like this...My assumption is that it was int he OPEN position when I launched the boat. I was expecting a "sucking" sound as I sailed as it drained the boat. There was no sucking and their was no draining. What are my options? I like the idea of a self-bailing boat so as if I capsize I can self recover. It one of the reason I steered away from the Flying Scot.


Other than that, no other leaks that I found tonight.

Here is a picture of it in the water getting ready to wrap up an evening.

If that picture of the drain in your transom has a thread on the outside then it uses a threaded plastic plug with a red plastic washer. Don't know the exact model/mfr nos., but very common. If there's no thread on it, buy a rubber stopper for it and put it in from the inside. By the way, you can buy the rubber stopper in West Marine and pay whatever they charge for them or get one (or 3) from HD/Lowes. Auto bailers work when the boat is underway only and should be closed until you are. If your boat has water in it, you're underway, your autobailer is open and your boat isn't being drained, your autobailer is not working and should be closed until you determine what the deal is. Open (or broken autobailers) on boats that aren't making headway are a wet nuisance. I carry a bucket, a sponge and a hand pump on my DS1.

Item #1: this hole should have a plug in it. If no threads, the plug would be inserted from the inside (that type of plug has a handle that allows it to be squeezed for positive seal). If threaded, plug typically goes in from the outside.

Item #2: if there's no obstruction, when the bailer is open (and you move fast enough) you should indeed expect it to suck water out of the boat. I think you should be able to check for obstruction on the trailer. As discussed in a neighboring thread elsewhere, a ball may be fitted that self-seals the opening so there's no slow leaks when not in motion. Go look for and read there.

Solarwinds wrote:If that picture of the drain in your transom has a thread on the outside then it uses a threaded plastic plug with a red plastic washer. Don't know the exact model/mfr nos., but very common. If there's no thread on it, buy a rubber stopper for it and put it in from the inside. By the way, you can buy the rubber stopper in West Marine and pay whatever they charge for them or get one (or 3) from HD/Lowes. Auto bailers work when the boat is underway only and should be closed until you are. If your boat has water in it, you're underway, your autobailer is open and your boat isn't being drained, your autobailer is not working and should be closed until you determine what the deal is. Open (or broken autobailers) on boats that aren't making headway are a wet nuisance. I carry a bucket, a sponge and a hand pump on my DS1.

+1 on Hand pump / Manual Bailer. If you ever tip the boat over, when you right it you are going to want a hand pump. They weight next to nothing and easy to store in the cuddy. Until I figured out how to seal the ice chest in the seat of my boat, I used the hand pump all the time to dry it out. Also, if you are out for a long time and you get a sloshy inner hull from other potential slow leaks, you can always pop an inspection port (in floor by cuddy), and stick the hand pump in there and pump out water the boat has taken on. Great little gizmo to have aboard.

I made the same mistake. Plug the transom drain and you should be okay. It is my one gripe about the DS1 - the mast step and keelson is below that drain.

That is an Elvstrom/Andersen bailer. No ball like the DePersia type. Might just need a new gasket:

http://www.rigrite.com/Hardware/Bailers ... ilers.html

(Scroll to the bottom)

kokko wrote:I made the same mistake. Plug the transom drain and you should be okay. It is my one gripe about the DS1 - the mast step and keelson is below that drain.

My DS1 used to have a second drain right aft of the CB (lowest spot). However, I park my trailer on a slight incline, so this isn't needed and I glassed it over.

TIM WEBB wrote:That is an Elvstrom/Andersen bailer. No ball like the DePersia type. Might just need a new gasket:

http://www.rigrite.com/Hardware/Bailers ... ilers.html

(Scroll to the bottom)

Do you know off the top of your head if this is the correct bailer for the boat (Super Max' SS Bailer: Elv 24-SMax:)? I am going to measure next weekend when I out near the boat again, but would like to get a quote from RigRite before then

Not really sure, and in fact yours is the first I've seen one of these on a DS. I had a Larsen scow back in the 80's that had two of them. I mainly posted the link to illustrate that gaskets are available. Any markings of any kind on the bailer?

Made it out to the club tonight and yanked off this bailer.

It is caked in silicone, so apparently it has leaked before. It is an Andersen model. Looking up detail looks like this is the one:

http://optistuff.com/store/index.php?ma ... 25b0821c7e


Now I am trying to decide if it is worth trying to rebuild with the service kit since I bent the front piece of the tab pretty bad loading it onto the trailer, or start with a brand new bailer...

Holy <beep> they want $120 for a new one?!?!

Do what you can to salvage the old one. Is it bent beyond repair? I would at least try to fix it. What exactly does the "service kit" include? Can't tell from the link ...

Does your boat have the stern drain? If so, I'd just keep the Anderson yanked, glass over that hole, and install a bailer from D&R ...

I did a fair amount of research years ago when I was considering putting in an Anderson bailor. Their best use is for racing boats because in the up position they don't have much drag, as opposed to the one from D & R. However, they are not recommended for boats that are on moorings or at docks as they are not reliable enough to not leak. It has been a while, but as I recall, even though they sell a rebuild kit, people said that it rarely worked and that it was better to get a new one. I think that any kind of bend or distortion makes it really difficult for them to seal properly. The one from D & R has a stopper so should be pretty reliable. It looks like the same one that is used in the Sunfish.

It was bent in a sharp 90 degree, on the lower 1/4 of the lip.

I couldn't hammer it flat and couldn't get it completely straight.
And, that rebuild kit only comes with an inner gasket and a mounting gasket.

I'm going for broke and just bought a new Ronstan for $99.