Hiccup installing new mainsheet block system...

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Hiccup installing new mainsheet block system...

Postby pboulanger » Sun May 14, 2017 7:35 pm

I'm looking to replace the old and beat-up mainsheet block and cleat system that are worn and cutting into the mainsheet (teeth on the cleat are sharp, really sticky, etc. etc.), but ran into a little hiccup - the screw holes on the new harken camcleat I purchased are about a 1/4" further away than the previous model currently screwed into the centerboard trunk. I'm concerned that the new screw holes will be too close to the previous ones if I were to just pivot the base and screw it in, sacrificing structural stability.

In order to remedy that, I was thinking that I will need to remove the old base, fill the holes with epoxy, and then install the new base. Does this sound correct? Do I need to layer a little fiberglass down for extra strength when I fill the holes, or would just filling them be fine? When I remove the old base, what exactly is it screwing into there? Is there any sort of backing, or are the screws just heading into a void?

Thanks for your help!
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Re: Hiccup installing new mainsheet block system...

Postby TIM WEBB » Sun May 14, 2017 10:52 pm

Not sure which DS model you have (might not matter), but I replaced the standup mainsheet block on TRW ('79 DS2) with the Garhauer one D&R sells, and found the same hole centering mismatch, so had a machinist buddy make this adapter for me:
996
Later on I realized that since there was a metal plate glassed into the CB trunk under that base, I removed the adaptor and just tapped new holes directly into the trunk.

Hope this helps!
Tim Webb
1979 DS2 10099 The Red Witch
(I used to be Her "staff", in the way dogs have owners and cats have staff, but alas no longer ... <pout>)
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Re: Hiccup installing new mainsheet block system...

Postby pboulanger » Sun May 14, 2017 11:04 pm

Mine is a 1984 DSII.

So you used the smaller holes to bolt down into the pre-existing plate, and then your new block screwed into the larger holes in your adapter? Did you need any sort of backing plate, or was the strength of your adapter enough?
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Re: Hiccup installing new mainsheet block system...

Postby jeadstx » Mon May 15, 2017 1:59 am

You should have a metal plate there to drill and tap. Modern hardware all has this miss alignment problem. I know a couple DS owners that have made this replacement. I've heard you can rotate the base 45 degrees also before drilling and tapping new holes. I have plans to do this on my 76 DS II as well.

John
1976 Day Sailer II, #8075 - Completed the 2011, 2012, and 2013 Texas 200
1952 Beetle Boat Swan Catboat
Early Rhodes 19
1973 Mariner 2+2, #2607 - Completed 2014, 2015 and 2016 Texas 200
1969 Day Sailer I, #3229
Fleet 135; Canyon Lake, Texas
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Re: Hiccup installing new mainsheet block system...

Postby GreenLake » Mon May 15, 2017 3:08 am

Simply make a template of the new base. Rotate it 45 degrees. Drill one of the holes the proper size to be tapped, or a smaller pilot. If you hit metal, you are good, no need to add epoxy/glass to strengthen anything. Just finish drilling all holes the size you need, tap them and install your new fitting.

(I still think this assumes that the size of the glassed in metal plate is generous enough to hold a rotated pattern with wider hole spacing. On my DSI that area doesn't look very generously sized, but my original fitting is holding up nicely, so I'm not ready for an upgrade. It's the last block/cleat that's still original, except for the horn cleats, so I like to keep it around).
~ green ~ lake ~ ~
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Re: Hiccup installing new mainsheet block system...

Postby pboulanger » Mon May 15, 2017 10:15 am

When I remove the current base, will I see the metal plate, or is it underneath the trunk?
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Re: Hiccup installing new mainsheet block system...

Postby hsumralljr » Mon May 15, 2017 12:26 pm

The metal plate is covered with fiberglass you won't be able to see it when you remove the old cleat base, but it's there.
Herb Sumrall, Jr.
Baton Rouge, LA

DS1 #3235
DS1 #2844
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Re: Hiccup installing new mainsheet block system...

Postby TIM WEBB » Mon May 15, 2017 12:40 pm

pboulanger wrote:Mine is a 1984 DSII.

So you used the smaller holes to bolt down into the pre-existing plate, and then your new block screwed into the larger holes in your adapter? Did you need any sort of backing plate, or was the strength of your adapter enough?

Yes, the smaller holes were countersunk, and I used flush-head bolts (forget the correct term) to attach the adaptor to the existing trunk holes. The larger holes were tapped to accept the base mounting screws. The adapter was aluminum, and I didn't need any other backing plate. I later did away with the adapter and did as John and GL describe, rotating the base 45 degrees and drilling/tapping new holes. I did in fact hit metal, so at least in '79, the plate was large enough to accommodate the bigger spacing. Not sure on an '84, but you could do as GL describes and drill an "exploratory" hole. If you hit metal, great, proceed, if you don't, no real harm done, just go with an adapter.

The plate is glassed in just below the surface of the land on the trunk - if you look/shine a light down into the existing holes you should see a glint of bronze or SS or whatever it's made of.

Here's a pic of the adapter installed

995

And after I removed it

1261
Tim Webb
1979 DS2 10099 The Red Witch
(I used to be Her "staff", in the way dogs have owners and cats have staff, but alas no longer ... <pout>)
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Re: Hiccup installing new mainsheet block system...

Postby carl10579 » Fri Jun 16, 2017 3:30 am

Looks nice, lots of leverage.
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