Basic Painting Questions

For issues common to different models of DaySailer.
Except Rigging and Sails.

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Re: Basic Painting Questions

Postby tomodda » Sun Dec 20, 2020 9:14 am

You've inspired me, I'm repainting my entire underbody with "If You Can Read This, Bring More Beer." Both sides, upside-down letters, DayGlo Orange (for safety, of course)
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Re: Basic Painting Questions

Postby GreenLake » Sun Dec 20, 2020 5:23 pm

I just knew that "free association" on this forum would uncover the perfect solution! Just give it time, and more beer.
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Re: Basic Painting Questions

Postby Fly4rfun » Sun Dec 20, 2020 5:55 pm

HELP IM DROWNING,.......... Save the beer first :lol:
"Sail Aweigh" 1966 DS1 #2675
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Re: Basic Painting Questions

Postby tomodda » Sun Dec 20, 2020 10:05 pm

The irony is that I've drank a beer aboard #37 exactly once - with my son, he brought a six-pack aboard and drank most of it. My usual boating drink is iced tea. Not that I'm a teetotaler, far from it! Just too busy sailing to really enjoy a beer...
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Re: Basic Painting Questions

Postby GreenLake » Mon Dec 21, 2020 12:00 am

Tom, I'm with you on that. It's that I like my beer on land, after the sail.
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Re: Basic Painting Questions

Postby Fly4rfun » Mon Dec 21, 2020 1:59 pm

I agree guys, same goes with my motorcycle, enjoy a beer but not while riding, will be the same with sailing. I ride with one group, get caught or appear to be drinking your ask to leave. after the ride, well lets say we have fun
"Sail Aweigh" 1966 DS1 #2675
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Re: Basic Painting Questions

Postby marcusg » Fri Jan 08, 2021 2:32 pm

I guess I missed the fun...for some reason the forum stopped sending me email notifications.

Anywho, my hundreds of dollars in paint and epoxies and so on is all in storage now that I ended up losing out on a heated shop space for the winter to finish the boat. Instead, I ordered a tabernacle from D&R and am procrastinating cutting my mast as I'm scared to death of cutting it unevenly.

The instructions that came with the tabernacle about cut height and everything are clear, but I'm wondering what people used to make the actual cut? I have access to a chop saw, and I could buy an aluminum cutting blade if I have to (I hear the actual blades with teeth are better than the abrasive ones?) but I'm wondering what other options there are. Also - how "strict" is it with getting the cut totally flat? If my mast bends a little on the bench while chopping it, am I screwed?
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Re: Basic Painting Questions

Postby Fly4rfun » Fri Jan 08, 2021 8:48 pm

aluminum can be worked with woodworking tools, i use a table saw to cut 1/4 aluminum plate, its about as bad as some hardwoods on the sharpness, I would use no less than a 40 tooth blade, 60 would be better, make sure it is sharp. don't rush it when making the cut. and IMHO the chop saw would be best to ensure a square cut. make sure to support the mast away from the saw to minimize flexing. Sorry about you shop loss, I feel fortunate to have a heated (free gas) shop area to work on mine, just need to get it in and started. be sure to store your paints and resin in a warm place, as if they freeze it can ruin them.
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Re: Basic Painting Questions

Postby GreenLake » Sat Jan 09, 2021 12:42 am

I of course maintain that cutting a mast is a crime and that rigging your own mast-raising sleeved hinge is the better answer.
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Re: Basic Painting Questions

Postby marcusg » Mon Jun 28, 2021 9:03 am

So I thought I was going to have a couple weeks of heated shop time this winter to paint the boat, gelcoat the floor, and finish all the necessary repairs and sanding in prep for that, but I didn't, so once I was ready I launched back into that stuff this spring.

Lately, I've been fixing the rotted out potion behind my coamings. On my Sailstar the deck comes down at a 90 degree angle and then continues for maybe 1.5-2", and this little strip that goes along the top of the cockpit is what my coamings bolt to. About 10" of it was rotted in one place (which I was able to dremel/angle grind into and find). And then there was another L-potion where it angled back across the transom that had another few inches rotted as well.

My technique was to just use some 1/4" plywood I'd bought (at a price) for another part of the boat project. I know you said exterior grade Greenlake, but I just can't justify buying any more wood right now (also working on a tiny house - absolute worst time to build lol.) So anyways, my understanding of laminating wood is that that just means putting a layer of glass/epoxy on both sides? So that's what I did with my lighter cloth. Squeegeed the epoxy out and everything, and also coated all the edges (after sanding and acetone of course.) Then, once both sides had dried (I laminated one side at a time and propped it up on the mixing stick so it wouldn't dry to my work surface) I used GelMagic/Thixxo to glue and lightly clamp the pieces in place on the boat.

There were only two really hard parts to the project: getting the size of the wood replacement pieces right (took a bit of sanding and reshaping and telling myself 'good enough') and the other was the gelmagic/thixxo. It was so damn hard to get out of the tube...and then I discovered the cap was on. So after that Gelmagic-splosion all over my new, organized worktable, I took the cap off the next one. But now this one had a similar problem, except it was a brand new (cap off) tube of Thixxo. It was sooo dang hard to get to come through those tips they give you. I actually ended up spraining my wrist struggling with two hands on the caulk gun trigger to dispense enough of it to try and fill the gaps between my laminated wood pieces and the boat.

I'm wondering if over the winter my supplies got exposed to colder temps than the thixxo likes, and I'll need to do that hot water bath thing. Has anyone else had to do that with the stuff? I've just reverted to hand mixing it at this point. It comes out of the caulk gun fine, but once the tip is on it gradually becomes impossible to pull the trigger. And this is even with S3's enhanced caulk gun that gives you 12x instead of 8x or whatever.

I actually hadn't used Thixxo until just now, all my previous supply was S3's Gelmagic (also in caulk tubes) and I never had a problem with them and their tips. Does thixxo just supply bad tips for their tubes?

Here's pics of the above:
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/ ... sp=sharing

Of course I've still got to "connect" my repair to the old deck with fiberglass and fair it to look nice, but the major part is done, now it's all just playing with goop.

I do want to get this Thixxo thing figured out though, because I was planning to use it in place of the Filleting mixture to do 4 long fillets to connect plywood to under my benches (i call them my "footboards" because the back of your feet would butt against them as you sit on bench.) Anyways, I wanted to use Thixxo/Gelmagic for this because it WAS very easy to just shoot out of the caulk gun in long strips. So it would save both time and money since Fillet stuff is insanely expensive and I don't have the patience or time for self-mixing at this point. So yeah, I need to figure out if all my batch (4 tubes left) of Thixxo is no good to begin with, or if I need to give up on my caulk gun idea because of the tips or if they can be reconstituted or what.
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Re: Basic Painting Questions

Postby marcusg » Tue Jun 29, 2021 5:49 pm

To answer my own question: I took all my Thixo caulk tubes and put them in a 140 degree hot water bath and left them there as the water cooled. One of those container was already half-gone, and the next time I went to squeeze it out a new nozzle tip, it worked like the good ole days.

So seems Thixo can crystalize somewhere between 30 and 40 degrees, since that's what the garage got down to before I moved my stuff inside for the winter.
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Re: Basic Painting Questions

Postby GreenLake » Thu Jul 01, 2021 12:23 pm

Crystalizing is a definite "thing". I've used the hot water bath method on my tubes of gelmagic. Now I keep them on the top shelf so they don't drop below room temperature, and that seems to mostly make that unnecessary.

When epoxy sealing wood, a glass layer is usual for either adding strength or scratch / puncture resistance. Where neither applies, you can leave off the glass.

Make sure you seal all holes you drill, because water can and will (!) get in there and then won't be able to get out.
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Re: Basic Painting Questions

Postby marcusg » Mon Jul 19, 2021 8:05 pm

Couple questions:

1. Sealing screw holes in wood (like for coamings and so on.) What I understand so far is to put epoxy in the screw hole (just normal epoxy? thickened/Thixo?) and then dip the screw in furniture/floor wax before screwing in so they don't get glued.

2. Should the inside of my transom be fiberglassed? It appears one of the previous owners replaced the transom, and the one they put is only glassed for about 6" on the inside/cabin side of the transom. I could use a bunch of material and glass up the rest before painting, but I don't know if it's normal for there to be exposed wood on the cabin-side of transoms.

Thanks.
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Re: Basic Painting Questions

Postby GreenLake » Mon Jul 19, 2021 9:59 pm

Thickened makes it stay in the hole until squezed out. Neat epoxy actually has better holding power for threads. Yes, someone tested that.

Transom should be sealed but FG isn't needed. FG can add strength or at least scratch resistance. Neither would seem to apply. But the wood should have been sealed in epoxy. If it's truly bare wood, make sure it's dry (even the glassed portion!). Once you seal it, no moisture will escape.
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Re: Basic Painting Questions

Postby marcusg » Tue Jul 20, 2021 12:31 pm

Greenlake, when you say the transom should be sealed in epoxy, do you mean just painting normal laminating epoxy on there, or some kind of thinned epoxy? Or like a woodsealer like pettit sells for before painting?

https://www.wholesalemarine.com/pettit- ... TtEALw_wcB
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