DaySailer.org Forum

Does anyone use these Jib Cars on the side gunnels instead of cleating at the centerboard?

http://www.drmarine.com/proddetail.asp?prod=DS147

Seems like it would clear up lines crossing the cabin, but is there enough leverage?

~Saltatrix
DS1 #3312
http://www.flickr.com/photos/johnlovett/5916312896/

Yes i canibalized a ds II and put these on my ds I. I did drill thru the wood backing and used nuts on the back side. Sailed it once and havent noticed any probems yet

Can anyone provide some input on mounting the jib car track that is linked above or other hardware on the side of the cockpit or on the rail. I like the idea of getting cam cleats along the sides of the cockpit so that I can single hand more easily vs. routing on to the centerboard which I consistently find just out of reach. Other than drilling a hole and putting in an inspection port is there a way to securely affix a new jib car track or a cam cleat? Will pop rivets be strong enough? Is there another expanding piece of hardware that I can attach blind? What's behind that part of the cockpit? Is there an epoxy that I could use in combination with hardware that would be credible?

I've been digging through the forum and find lots of related topics but not quite this one.

I'm sailing a early 70s DS2.

Thanks all!

I would not trust unsupported deck molding with holding fasterners for a jib track. Not just for the point loads from each fastener, but also to distribute the total sheet load a bit, I would think some sort of backing would be useful. The minute you come to that conclusion, there's no way around adding an inspection port. (Now, if you don't believe in a backing plate, but think fender washers are sufficient, you'd still need an inspection port.)

Adding a port is an extra step, but it's quite manageable. You can get a "sock" (net) to go on the inside, so you can use the port for storage of small-ish items that you want reasonably well-protected (but don't need to reach for constantly, because you do want to close the lids every time).

My thinking would be that pop rivets just aren't a good fit for fiberglass in this kind of application. They do hold pretty well if you use them on an aluminum spar, but holes in a spar are not in as much danger of cracking.

Other blind fasteners may not be offered in versions that are corrosion-proof enough for a boat, and some, like drywall anchors, need substantial size holes.

Look through the personal galleries of some of the people who are DS2 owners and have posted about modifications. I'm sure I've seen images of the inside of the DS2 cockpit coamings.

Totally aside from this, I never have problems reaching the jib sheets when cleating them on the CB top. For for-and-aft balance, you'll want to sit rather forward anyway when single-handing (use a hiking stick/tiller extension). From that position, the sheets are right next to you. I tie both sheets together, so I can always grab the lazy sheet at / near the windward cleat if necessary and pull the leeward (active) sheet tight from there.

My cam cleats do not have bails of fairleads, which means I can "drop" the sheet into them once it's tight to where I want it. If I'm sitting on the side deck, I may need a foot to force the sheet down to lock it; not elegant, but it works.

Other boats I sailed with have (captive) cleats on top/top inside of the coaming, with each sheet lead across the boat. This makes it super convenient to trim the sheet while hiked out, but you must release the sheet without fail before moving to the other side in a tack. After that, you can't reach it any more. If you sail in stronger winds and hike a lot, that might work well. It does mean the two sheets criss-cross the boat, but you don't need that space when single-handing (and if your crew is hiking, they don't need that space either).

+1 with what GL said. If you are single handling, the sheets are easier to reach when on the CB trunk. If on the bulwarks, You will most likely be sitting on the windward side while your sheets will be on the lee side.