Ratchet Block Refitting

Moderator: GreenLake

Ratchet Block Refitting

Postby FlyingWasp » Fri Apr 09, 2021 12:11 pm

Hello all,

I bought a DS III at the end of last season and haven't sailed it yet, but i'm trying to make some configuration changes before the coming spring. I've never sailed a daysailer and while I have my ASA keel boat certification, I would say that i'm still learning to sail.

I've been reading the forums and hoping i might get a little guidance here.

First change is replacing the jib cam cleats. I was thinking that I would copy Greenlake's setup which seems ingenious. So i'm planning to install inspection ports in either side to get access to the rail to back with a plate, then I would replace the existing rail with a harken rail and jib cars, then use a 57 Ronstan ratchet block on each (or 40, I have to see what the diameter of my jib sheets is). I would then angle some cam cleats on the centerboard trunk.

Questions:
1. Do i need to replace the rail? They seem fine otherwise. Is there a way to put just new jib cars on and attach a ratchet block?
2. How big of an inspection hole do I need? I was thinking 4", but I have some waterlogged foam in there, so maybe I should think about 6" so I can possibly get more access in case I want to replace the foam?
3. This is dumb, but which side of the cam cleat needs to be angled upwards? Is it the side closest to windward? Or the side where the jib sheet enters the cleat? As everyone can probably tell, i've read enough to know that other folks are angling the cleats, but don't have good enough knowledge around the 'why'.

Second objective is replacing the main sheet blocks. After reading Green Lake's argument for ratchet blocks, i'm sold on the need. However I don't have a great understanding what the ideal setup is. Do i just need to update the boom block with a ratchet? Or should i update the fiddle block that stands up on the centerboard with a ratchet fiddle? Should I do both?
I really don't want to mess around with the swivel base, so if there is any way to avoid that - it would be ideal. Does anyone know if there is a swivel base with the same screw/bolt pattern ? I think i might have seen in the forum that the Harken 140 maybe is a direct match?

In an ideal world I would replace just the fiddle with a ratchet fiddle, unscrew the eye strap that sits on the cam cleat currently, and leave the boom block as it seems redundant to have two ratchet blocks on the main sheet. However I have no issues spending the extra $100 or whatever if it makes sailing safer or more enjoyable. I capsized a hobie with my then girlfriend (now wife) about 10 years ago - the last words I heard were 'I thought you said you knew how to...'. It took her another 10 years to get into another boat and this time around i'm very interested in not turtling another boat with her in it.

Any other good ideas? I already purchased new standing rigging from Rudy. The used sails I bought are in immaculate shape. I'm putting a new RS Quest masthead float on (I know...probably not a popular choice, but i've got a history, and where I sail is the absolute worst place in terms of getting a mast stuck in the mud...if I was in almost any other water I would just deal with an occasional swim).

Really appreciate the wealth of knowledge already in the forums and for any and all advice...pictures below.
Attachments
Jib Cam Cleat 2.jpg
Jib Cam 2
Jib Cam Cleat 2.jpg (203.36 KiB) Viewed 3234 times
Jib Cam Cleat 1.jpg
Jib Cam1
Jib Cam Cleat 1.jpg (247.47 KiB) Viewed 3234 times
Main Sheet Fiddle Block.jpg
Mainsheet Fiddle
Main Sheet Fiddle Block.jpg (221.51 KiB) Viewed 3234 times
FlyingWasp
 
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Re: Ratchet Block Refitting

Postby GreenLake » Fri Apr 09, 2021 6:30 pm

Welcome to the forum.

If you've never sailed a DS, i would strongly advise you not to make decisions on upgrades for the rigging before you've taken the boat out on the water and developed a sense how to sail it.

What work well for you may be a setup that I dislike strongly and vice versa.

One of the fun things about the DS is how individualized the various rigging setups are, because even the racing sailors are allowed to go to town.

However, if you are dead set on following some well-meaning rigging advice (including my own), here are some answers to your questions.

The track could be left in place, if you are able to fit whatever replacement blocks to the existing cars (or get a different set of cars that can be modified). In my case, the cars had a "loop" that could be opened from the back, so it was easy to switch out the blocks. The cars on your track combine fairlead with cleat. Your photos do not show the base, but it would be unlikely to have a convenient attachment point. If you can find the same track (or style of track) and either get replacement cars, or get one that has different cars that you can repurpose, then you should be able to keep the track. (Getting access to the end of the track to fit a new car may also depend on whether it has a cap and whether that cap can come off w/o dismantling the track).

Now, my setup requires cleats on top of the CB trunk. I've angled my cleats up towards the windward side of each. I don't use "keeps" on the cleats - there's a whole discussions somewhere why not, but you've probably read that already. Matter of taste & style that.

I have end-boom sheeting on the main, you seem to have center boom sheeting. In my case, the block at the center of the boom is a single 90 bend. I put a ratchet block there and it worked fine. KC put a second one at the end of the boom (also 90 degree turn). I would, if I felt the need for it, so far have not. In your case, I assume you have a fiddle also on the boom? Or is it a single block with a becket? In the latter case, you would just replace that one with a ratchet block. If it's also a fiddle, or a double block (two parallel sheaves) your plan of replacing the standup one sounds fine, if you can source the part and make it fit.

However, you may decide that you'd rather prefer end boom sheeting, in which case, don't prematurely upgrade the existing setup.

Inspection ports: always make them as big as you can fit. Esp. if you expect to use them for other purposes.

If you tend to capsize, invest in a good vang (12:1 or better) - see discussion. It allows you to depower your main in a more controlled way and hopefully keep you upright.

Finally, if you single-hand, install a pair of eye straps on either side of the cockpit roughly 6-8" aft of the tip of your tiller. Those will be useful for the "bungee tiller tamer" (see relevant posts). Force on those will be limited, you can just use sheet metal screws into the fiberglass. (This, like your mast float, are upgrades to do prior to the test sail :) ).
~ green ~ lake ~ ~
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Re: Ratchet Block Refitting

Postby Shagbark » Fri Apr 09, 2021 7:46 pm

+1 on Greenlakes suggestion on holding off on making changes. Sail her how she is currently rigged and see what you like and dislike. Then, make small incremental changes as you learn the boat. As far as the capsize concern, the DS is very stable and as long as you don't cleat the main, she'll stay top side up.
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Re: Ratchet Block Refitting

Postby tomodda » Fri Apr 09, 2021 9:48 pm

The DS is unballasted, but her broad aft sections give her relatively good "terminal stability," in other words how far you can heel before she's unrecoverable. To give you an idea, I've sailed along perfectly well with green water washing over the side decks. I took it a bit further and let water come into the cockpit for a few seconds.... wasn't at all unstable, although I had a few gallons to bail out afterwards. In practice, you want to keep the boat FLAT for speed, 15 degree heel at most, but she doesn't get upset sailing "on her ear," gunwales under. The big trick is to learn "ease-hike-trim," also known as "burping the mainsail".... keep the mainsail in hand, ease on the puffs, lean out, pull back again. I try not to luff, but if all else fails, head up (aka luff the main). She's very forgiving, at least compared to the Hobies I grew up on... ;-)
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