Jib Cleats on Centerboard Trunk

[James4]

My DSII came with the original tracks on the seat back, which I can live with. But it came without jib cleats. I like the idea of securing a board to the CB trunk, which will give me plenty of choices on where to mount cleats. I would love some advice on the best way to attach a board, such as how thick a board, and how long should the screws be. I've also wondered if I should have just cleats, or cleats with a guide for the sheets. I just worry a cleat with a guide will interfere with rapid release of the jib sheet. If this has been addressed elsewhere in the Forum, please let me know. Thank you. Jim

[GreenLake]

Jim, this has been most definitely discussed before, the best way to locate such discussions is to search - not necessarily inside the forum, but by telling your favorite search engine to return results from this site only.

A "board" sounds like "wood" and that's not something I would want to recommend. I have a DS1 with quite a bit of wood trim, and it really makes the boat look special, but it does require specific maintenance, including having the right tools, chemicals, and varnish etc. on hand - doing so for one small bit of it seems daunting.

For my boat, the CB trunk is a single bit of laminate, there are no caps or cockpit moldings that turn into a double layer. But nevertheless, a similar approach might work for you.

Instead of a piece of wood, I have a stainless steel U-channel (open side down). It is drilled with holes to bolt cleats to. (I use wedges that are supplied for cleats so that I can angle the cleat a bit in the direction of pull.). It also has holes in the sides for throughbolts that go sideways through the top of the CB trunk.

This piece can't be purchased, but any machine shop will run you up one of these for a moderate amount and based on your measurements. I think I spent less for it than for the cleats that went on it.

The cleats I use are without guides. This is partially a matter of taste, and partially a matter of how you sail your boat. Some people like the guides (simple wire loops on the side of the cleat opposite the free end). With that, you can trim the jib sheet to precisely the length maximally needed and put a stopper knot in the end. The sheet will always be in the cleat (whether cleated or just resting on it) and that makes that location the one where you know where to pick up your sheet.

The downsides are numerous, and in some situations that can be awkward.

• when you pull the sheet out of the cleat and just let go, it can easily re-cleat itself after releasing only a few inches.
• When you need to operate the jib while not sitting on the windward side. (This can happen in light wind situations).
• When the jib cleated itself on the wrong side (or you forgot to release it in a quick tack) and you need to lean over the CB to leeward to try to release it.
• When you would need to lean in to grab the jib sheet, for example, when you cleated the sheet, let the tail go, and the boat suddenly heels, so you really don't want to move inboard.
• When you are soloing. (You'll rarely sit in the good spot to operate the sheet)
• When you decide not to cleat the jib (because of shifty winds, or to cut the risk of capsize)

My solution is to not use guides, but to tie the two ends together. Some people find that initially confusing until they realize that all you have to do is grab any portion of the combined sheet and then start pulling it in the direction you want (if necessary going hand-over-hand to find the best spot to hold it). When tacking, without guides, you just grab the part you are sitting next to and bring that across with you very smoothly.

We often hold the jib (and I'm using ratchet blocks to make that easier), but with an unguided cleat you just drop the sheet into the cleat from above. (If you are sitting out and the sheet is under lots of tension, a helpful foot may be needed to bring it down into the cleat). Even if the crew forgot to uncleat the jib, it can be released by yanking up on the tensioned side (try that with guides). Conversely, you can initially focus on trimming the jib and only worry about cleating it when it's where you want it to be.

I singlehand a lot. I need instant response if a gust is too strong, and the ability to operate the jib from a place that I can also operate the main and tiller. With my system, I only have a single line to keep track of for the jib, not ends that can get away from me, and no ends that sit on the wrong side of a cleat from where I'm sitting.

The downside of my system is that it confuses people new to the boat and that I maybe have a foot or two more total jibsheet.

Incidentally, mine is a single piece of rope. I don't knot the ends to the clew, or use metal shackles. Instead, I connect the middle of the line to the clew using a soft-shackle that I've tied like a Prusik knot around the sheet. That has worked brilliantly for me for so long I can't even remember.

Realizing you have a DSII and I have a DS1, here are some pictures that illustrate how this works for me. Perhaps they can inspire you to develop your own solution.

[bilbo]

My DSII has the tracks where yours are and cars with cleats, but also has a couple areas on the centerboard trunk that look purpose built for attaching jib sheet cleats with a set of two pads, each inclined to one side of the boat. I have thought about installing them there but never got around to it. I planned to just drill and tap holes and install them directly to the trunk. Perhaps yours has the same and wouldn’t need any additional material?