Let's Talk Centerboard operation.

[bilbo]

I ad some centerboard issues today while out sailing and ran across this thread looking after I got home. The board would move itself up partially when the Downhaul was not cleated. I’m assuming this is due to drag on the board. With the downhaul cleated, the board hit something and got jammed. It wouldn’t move either way. I haven’t been able to survey the damage yet, but the system Tim Webb put together looks like it would help a lot. How are the cleats attached to the trunk? The horn cleat already there looks like it’s just a couple of screws. Is that really enough?

[GreenLake]

I can add some generic thoughts to the discussion:

1. Bolts or screws for cleats are loaded on shear (sideways), making them stronger relative to other directions of pull
   
2. You don't know it's a screw unless you unscrew and look at it.
   
3. Some places on these boats there are embedded metal plates that were drilled and tapped for bolts.

I would unscrew one screw/bolt from the horn cleat and check. That's the best generic answer.

[bilbo]

It’s held on by two #8 screws. They go through the side of the trunk near the top of it, and don’t appear to be backed by anything. There’s a hollow space behind where the clear is mounted but I was unable to find where it is with a light or by fishing wire through the screw holes. The new hardware for Tim’s centerboard rigging is on order; I think if I stay at or above the height of the existing screws on the trunk I should be safe.

[GreenLake]

Certainly see no reason to suggest to any change from the existing method. If you replace a cleat with one that has auto-release, it'll put a cap on the maximum pull.

[bilbo]

I did the auto-release cleat for the centerboard last year and unexpectedly tested it this past weekend. I was heading up to a beach and it got shallow a bit faster than expected. Or the CB whacked a rock, I'm not sure, but the auto-release popped loose and did its thing. I think this is a great modification.

[GreenLake]

Indeed, and the same if your rudder has a downhaul

[Tipster1]

I did the auto-release cleat for the centerboard last year and unexpectedly tested it this past weekend. I was heading up to a beach and it got shallow a bit faster than expected. Or the CB whacked a rock, I'm not sure, but the auto-release popped loose and did its thing. I think this is a great modification.

Interesting to hear your experience. I had an auto release cleat for several years. It would release with a loud bang when grounding. I warned guests but they would forget until the BANG! Eventually I just started calling it the "What the F--- was that" clamp. This season I went back to a jam cleat which I only use when I am on a screaming broad reach. I tried a length of 1/4" bungee, but it broke. I maintained the 2:1 block attached to CB down line and cuddy roof and then out the bulkhead. Life is easier. If I touch bottom, the line acts as an indicator and I can deal with it before coming to a complete stop. No more BANG!

I also replaced the CB up clam cleat with a real cleat after having to deal with a barnacle fouled CB caused by unattended cleat release. I sleep better now.

[James4]

I bought my '75 DSII last year and sailed it once before I realized more repairs were needed. The CB was hard to raise or lower. I believe the boat has mostly lived on a trailer. If I rule out shellfish in the CB slot, can I conclude that the wires came off and are jammed between the CB and the CB case? I'm about to careen the boat, and I'm wondering what I will find. A few replies back, someone said the lines should be continuous. What does that mean? Elsewhere I've read that the downhaul always needs to be under tension. Can someone clarify these last two sentences? If I find the lines are jammed between the CB and the CB housing, will it be obvious how to keep the lines from returning? Thanks for any tips. Jim

[Dgarren]

Anyone tried replacing the cable controlling the centerboard with dyneema or something similar? Wondering if that would cause less wear on the fiberglass holes? Also, anyone know where to get replacement plastic rims for the holes where the cables come through the boat?

[GreenLake]

The answer to the Dyneema is affirmative. If you read back in the older threads you'll find examples and discussions of that.

I'm not a DSII owner, but seem to recall that there's a solution using a pipe nipple for the exit holes. That's would also be in the archives of past discussions and it should be possible to locate it there. (First one to find it should post a link for anyone else with the same questions).