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going from a wire/rope to an all rope halyard

PostPosted: Wed Mar 21, 2007 2:48 pm
by adam aunins
I am getting a, new to me, DS2 into shape for summer and need to replace the rope section of my halyards. I want to go with an all rope halyard because I think it would be easyer for transport and storage. I'm looking for input from anyone that has knowledge on this to see if it's a good idea or if I should just splice in new rope. P.S. this is also posted under rigging. I thought more people might see it here and respond.

PostPosted: Wed Mar 21, 2007 3:38 pm
by calden
I replaced my wire/rope combo with new all rope when I upgraded things when I bought the boat a few years ago. The supposed liability is that you can't get the halyards as tight. The assets are that it is easier to deal with. With the newer sta-set rope, and given that this is not a terribly long mast, I think it's fairly easy to get the halyards pretty stiff.

New rope looks good, too.

Carlos

PostPosted: Thu Mar 22, 2007 8:23 am
by Lloyd Franks
My DS 2 has new standing and running rigging put on by previous owner and the only wire is is on the stay and shrouds. I've never seen wire halyards. Seems they'd be tough to handle. My boat has a cunningham, so once I've raised the mainsail (head sail has a furler, so no halyard), I tug down on the boom near the mast and cleat the cunningham. Sail is tight.

lloyd all wire not recommended

PostPosted: Thu Mar 22, 2007 6:37 pm
by Roger
Wire halyards are not all wire typically. If they were, they would indeed be hard not only on the hands but the cleating hardware as well. Most wire halyards are part rope. The two are either spliced together or there is a thimble at the wire end, where the rope is passed through and knotted or eyespliced. Older boats are spliced, and although the wire may have stood the test of time, the rope is wearing thin (literally).

If the splice must run through the masthead sheeves or jib head block, then a new wire rope spliced halyard should be purchased. You can imagine that these would be expensive. If the wire portion of halyard only passes through the block or sheeve, then a swagged thimble on the rope side of the sheeve, and an eye splice or knot on the rope portion of the halyard is all that is required for a join. It is then easy to turn the rope portion of you halyard end for end, every other season to extend its life.