Oars

[redtailseven]

Some months ago, I read here (I think) a discusion of mounting oars on a DS2. I have some good 8 1/2 foot oars that i think would get me home. Lake champlain has some very fickle winds sometimes. I remember not being very clear on where exactly the oarlcks were to be mounted. I was thinking of mounting a block on the gunwales, outside the cockpit fairing. Two strong bolts and a backer board under the gunwale would be a lot easier than cutting access holes to reach bolts under the deck. On the other hand I might be crazy. I don't like or trust motors much.

[GreenLake]

have some good 8 1/2 foot oars that i think would get me home. Lake champlain has some very fickle winds sometimes. .... On the other hand I might be crazy. I don't like or trust motors much.

I've not rowed a DS, but paddled one for several hundred feet with two people. The first time was just to see whether we could do it; since then I've used the paddles occasionally to get out of limited size calm spots.

Now, admittedly, the ergonomics aren't quite ideal, but it took a surprising amount of effort to keep it moving.

Oars might just be efficient enough to allow you to get home, but I suspect it would be a good workout.

[redtailseven]

Ironically, I decided to take my boat out for the first time yesterday. The centerboard got stuck and I was blown onto rocks near the launch ramp. I managed to avoid damage and paddled off which took forever against the wind. I found a bouy and got things back in order, but I think oars would have been useful. On the other hand. Stowing them and mounting them in a pinch may be difficult, too. More than oars, what I need is more time and experience on the water. I can't be a beginner forever.

[GreenLake]

For quick action, and in confined spaces, like near a dock, nothing beats a paddle.

Good luck with getting more quality time on the water, and if you go ahead with installing oars, I'd like to hear your experience with their perfofmance.

[talbot]

Yes, 8 1/2 foot oars should be good. On a DS II, there isn't much choice where to position the oarlocks, because the only place to sit is on the centerboard trunk between the jib cleats and mainsheet swivel. The oarlocks go more or less even with the mainsheet swivel on either side.

After trying various approaches on two different boats, Here's what I think is the easiest and least intrusive installation procedure:

1. Install an inspection port on the seat back about halfway between the oarlock position and the jib block tracks. (Why not right next to or under the oarlocks? Because the same port is intended to allow servicing of the jib tracks, which are anchored to a piece of plywood that eventually rots away.)

2. Find a couple of feet of ABS or aluminum tubing. I used heavy duty ABS external electrical conduit, but in retrospect, my old broken shroud spreaders might have been better.

3. Mark screw holes for flush mount (not edge mount) stainless oarlocks on the outside surface of the coaming. The holes should be as close to the top of the coaming as possible, but far enough below the edge that the wall of the tubing will fit in between the hole and the interior surface of the coaming top. Use your new inspection port to estimate the thickness of the fiberglass and to see if there are any gobs of resin or mat in the way. You can scrape away resin gobs. If it looks like you will hit an immovable bulge, just shift your holes a bit to clear it. (Just to be clear: Distance below top edge = tubing thickness + coaming thickness.)

4. After multiple measures, take a deep breath and drill your holes. You are going to run bolts all the way through the coaming. To make sure they align, I would carefully drill one of the top holes through to the cockpit side, then mark the remaining ones with that as a reference.

5. Cut your tubing into eight short lengths, one to span each of the pairs of screw holes in the outer and cockpit surfaces of the coaming. The tubing will keep the oarlock bolts from crushing the coaming when you tighten them down. Wedge the tubing into place. This is awkward, because the inner surface of the hull is uneven. You may want to do one section at a time and fit it into place.

6. Finally, bolt your oarlocks to the outside surface of the coaming, using large washers and lock nuts (or lock washers and capnuts) on the cockpit side of the coaming. Use silicone or BoatLife on the holes, as the outer holes could be in the water on an extreme heel.

7. Close the inspection port, put the oars in the boat, and go sailing, knowing that if the wind dies, you'll be able to get in without a motor.

8. Fine points: Bring a stiff flotation cushion to sit on. I've thought of designing a temporary seat, but have always elected to go sailing instead. You can mount the oars for carrying up against the lower tanks above the cockpit sole. I used small eye straps with shock cord around the oars. (You want to be able to deploy the oars quickly. When you need them, you often need them in a hurry). Seal these holes well, as they will be under water if you ship a few big waves. By the way, I have considered further reinforcing the combing inside wtih epoxy putty. Shouldn't be too hard, now that the structure of the tubes is in place.

9. Sources: I got the inspection ports, stainless oarlocks, and eyestraps from West Marine. Everything else was local hardware. Beware of light duty oarlocks. I broke a pot metal oarlock on my last boat. Most oarlocks are designed for use on small skiffs. Fully loaded with crew and baggage, you could be pulling half a ton. This is more akin to the load a river guide would row on a whitewater trip.

[redtailseven]

I have found some Davis-Adirondaack oarlocks. These have the oarlocks built into the hardware and they fold down into the hardware (inside the g'wales of the intended application). The orlocks would fold down outside the combing of the DS. I think that they are edge mounted (a little hard to see in the online picture--will call before I order) and have mounting holes near the top and an inch or two down. What do you think of putting 1/2 inch or so of mat fiberglass possibly stiffened with fillers on a tray, wedged up there for the top screws to fasten into and use your tubes below. Maybe the tubes could be used to support the backer board.

[talbot]

Sure, that could work. Once you get inside the gunwale, you'll probably find that it's pretty rough. The mat of fiberglass and resin should be thick and gooey enough to fill in the uneven inside surface so that your screws don't end up going into an air pocket.

I tried to do the same thing with a block of oak, but gave up when I realized it would have to be whittled to conform to the uneven surface.

[redtailseven]

I'm thinking of a number of layers of mat, each wetted out with clear epoxy and glued together with layers of thickened epoxy (all cut to the appropriate size). Possibly a bottom board of thin plywood to hold it up. then I can put a block on top of each tube to hold it as it cures. If I drill the holes first, I can insure that there is no air pocket and then seal the hole with tape (If there is a pocket, inject some epoxy in and seal the hole.

[talbot]

I like that idea. Use the bottom tubes to support the structure for the upper holes. That would have worked on my through-bolt design if I had been imaginative enough to think of it. Now I'm considering if that provides a way to enhance my current tube structure.

[redtailseven]

I was pricing the Davis oarlocks on different sites when I realized that there is not enough room on the outside of the coAMing for the oarlock to fold under. I'm just going to have to build anotHer dinghy because I like the idea of these oarlocks. Oddly, they are less expensive than oarlocks and oarlock mounts separately.
I think I will still try my mat sponge idea and through bolt the bottom holes only...two less bolts to look at in the cockpit. As for retrofitting, I think its potentially too messy to bother with. If it ain't broke....

[talbot]

On my boat, all that goes on the boat is the receptacle for the oarlock. Not sure what the technical term is. The actual retainer for the shaft stays on oar. With the top of the boat fitting aligned flush with the top of the combing, there is just enough room for the pin of the oarlock just clears the outer deck.

[redtailseven]

That's what I'm shooting for. I am getting Perko side mounts and using two screws into the cured "mat sponge. It will sit on the tubes below for the through bolts. Perhaps you could take out your lower tubes and put a "mat sponge" or two that would encase the top tubes somewhat.and give you solid epoxy for the lower screws. You could still through bolt them or use long screws and patch the inboard holes. I think you could even screw the second "mat sponge into the first after is cures. fill any gaps on the sides and you've probably just overthought the problem completlely. I paint my boat so gel coat isn't a problem in these situations. Butter any gaps on the sides with stiff epoxy and it should be bombproof. Wait to see what disaster befall me first. It may be a week or so, since I just ordered the hard ware.

Greg

[talbot]

Best of luck. And when it's all done, I wish for you a sunny day with a brisk wind that abruptly dies, and lots of other boats out, who watch enviously as you scull past them.

[redtailseven]

Well it took a while and real life changes everything. I looked at my hardware and cut my access holes. I decided that drilling lower holes with PVC spacers would not really help hold my sponge mat epoxy coated block in place. So I cut some boards that fit tightly in the coaming and wrapped them in mat and thickened epoxy. Having drilled the holes through the hardware and my precious boat, I pre drilled one screw and screwed it in. My block was long enough that I could hold the end comfortably in the access hole (my combing interior was fairly clean). I predrilled and installed the remaining 2 inch #10 screws.


Th next day I went to a river launch site. No dock and generous supply of sharp boulders all around (supplied by the state for some reason lost in the mists of time). I decided to throw the anchor out and attempt to tie off in some underbouldered area whilst I parked my rig. I saved the boat from the rocks but underwent an embarrassing time sorting out lines and sails. Bad words were spoken. But I had rowed out to the middle of the river and set the boat in order. Procceded upstream on fickle but wonderfully relaxing breezes. Much to see on a river not visible from mid-lake.I managed to breeze/drift back to the launch. I dropped anchor and sails, stowed most of the gear and rowed in. I tied up reasonable safely and got the rig. This is where to oars really pulled their weight. Up anchor and lines in, I rowed upstream, turned smartly toward the trailer and rowed her 3/4 up the bunks. Three or 4 feet of winch strap was all it needed. That landing more that made up for the inglorious launch! Another fine season ahead!

[GreenLake]

Congrats.

Can you post some pictures of your setup?