Oarlocks

Topics primarily or specifically about the DS2. Many topics are of general interest, so please use forum sections on Rigging, Sails, etc. where appropriate.

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Oarlocks

Postby jjkowals » Thu Mar 22, 2012 7:53 pm

Sorry if this has already been posted. Please feel free to redirect me, but I did not find anything after searching: oar, oarlocks, oar locks, rowing.

Anyway, I would like to add some rowing capabilities to my 1984 DS II. Can anyone give me some insight into this process? pictures, measurements, etc.

Thanks!
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Postby GreenLake » Fri Mar 23, 2012 12:59 am

Searching for "site:daysailer.org oar" in any popular search engine gives multiple hits.

Here's a selection:


The two articles at the end are about installing or using oars, even though it's not in their title. There are slight differences in installing oars for a DSII vs DS1 based on the differences in deck configuration, but the hulls are otherwise identical and require the same effort for propulsion, which means that things like the length of the oars should apply to both models.
Last edited by GreenLake on Fri Mar 23, 2012 10:44 am, edited 2 times in total.
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Postby owldraco » Fri Mar 23, 2012 1:37 am

It looks like those first three links are dead or something. I too have been thinking about rowing the DSII, and I found this topic.

http://forum.daysailer.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=3711

I have yet to cut hole to install the oar locks, but this year I hope to make a serviceable set of oars,k probably 7'-8' they won't be pretty I bet.

owldraco
Central KY
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Postby GreenLake » Fri Mar 23, 2012 10:47 am

owldraco wrote:It looks like those first three links are dead or something.

Looks like an invisible character got added in the cut&paste. Should be fixed now. They worked fine in the search engine, so the moral is, run your searches that way (not using the Search command inside this forum) and you'll find what you need.
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Postby jeadstx » Fri Mar 23, 2012 11:59 am

owldraco,

You should probably make the oars about 8-1/2 feet long. Mine are 7 feet and that is way too short. I plan to get 8-1/2 foot ones this spring.

John
1976 Day Sailer II, #8075 - Completed the 2011, 2012, and 2013 Texas 200
1952 Beetle Boat Swan Catboat
Early Rhodes 19
1973 Mariner 2+2, #2607 - Completed 2014, 2015 and 2016 Texas 200
1969 Day Sailer I, #3229
Fleet 135; Canyon Lake, Texas
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Re: Oarlocks

Postby WinniDS3 » Thu Apr 30, 2020 5:15 pm

I have a DS3 and would also like to install oar locks rather than use an outboard. The outer edge of the gunwale appears to be about 1/2 inch thick and would not require installing inspection ports to be able to tighten the nuts required to bolt on the brackets which the oar locks drop into. It is the same outer portion of the gunwale where the side stays attach to the plate. I found a video on you tube where they do a similar install on a Precision Daysailer 1. https://youtu.be/lkTJnC9x-yU
The outer edge of the gunwale is about an inch lower than the gunwale itself but I thought I could install a spacer using pvc trim. I am just not sure if this portion of the rail is sturdy enough to handle the oar locks. I would really appreciate any thoughts on this or if anyone has pictures they could share of their oar lock setup. Thank you
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Re: Oarlocks

Postby GreenLake » Thu Apr 30, 2020 7:47 pm

I've never installed a set, but I rowed across a marina with @jeadstx's setup and would say it works better than using paddles, but doing any real distance will be work. (With paddles, I've managed about a quarter mile on several occasions; let's say a mile in a real emergency). Advantage over oars is that they are deployed more quickly and easily in close quarters, like the last little bit to/from a dock. But you can have both if you keep a collapsible paddle for when oars would be overkill.

When you install spacers, think about lever arm. If you raise the oarlock, the additional support should not just raise the height, but be able transfer the rowing load as well. Now, with the usual design of these oarlocks you have three holes, one for the pin and two for the bolts. A shim piece would have the same. If it's loose, the bolts and tube would have to hold it in place and the rowing load would get transferred to the bottom of the tube, thus increasing the lever arm on it.

It might be enough to use an adhesive sealant to immobilize it well enough that it can take the rowing loads directly. Especially if you oversize it a bit to allow a ramp on either side.

You might also dimension it so it is as shallow as possible w/o interfering with the rowing.

From the video, the laminate thickness looks just about perfect to support oarlocks in that location. If that is all laminate then it should be pretty beefy.
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