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New member - Same old bailer questions

PostPosted: Tue Jul 25, 2017 8:53 pm
by fatjackdurham
Hi, everyone, my real name is Steve, and I just came into a 1980's Daysailer II. A previous owner had (I kid you not) fiberglassed around the cockpit bailer, and filled the hole with JB weld or caulk.

I pried away the fiberglass but could not get the plug removed, so I cut it off with a hacksaw, and cut the bottom piece off as well. So now, I have the aluminum shaft still in.

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I saw this post about slicing the shaft in half, and prying it out.

http://forum.daysailer.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=5477&p=30813&hilit=Bailer#p30750

But I have a question. Is the shaft epoxied in? I tapped it with a hammer, but it does not move at all. Do I need to remove it or can I install a new bailer over/through it? Can I consider the edge of the shaft where it touched the fiberglass watertight, or just too tight?

Thanks and nice to meet you.

Re: New member - Same old bailer questions

PostPosted: Wed Jul 26, 2017 10:49 am
by GreenLake
If you can remove the old one, then you don't need to worry about whether it's watertight. If you leave it in, the only way you'll be sure is by testing it. It could be fine, or it could have a crack where water seeps through. Impossible to tell that remotely.

Would a new bailer fit with it in place?

Re: New member - Same old bailer questions

PostPosted: Wed Jul 26, 2017 11:10 am
by fatjackdurham
I can drill out and even thread the aluminum shaft. In fact, I considered making some threaded flanges on my lathe, and screwing them in with sealant to both sides, clamping them together and sealing the hole on each side.

However, I am more concerned that the existing hole will be larger than the replacement plastic bailer that I am buying, and that I'll have to fiberglass the hole to make it smaller. I am not confident I can make it strong enough and look nice enough.

Re: New member - Same old bailer questions

PostPosted: Wed Jul 26, 2017 1:20 pm
by GreenLake
Sounds like you are more familiar with metal work than with fiberglass. Is that the main reason for your hesitation? Doing a strong repair in fiberglass is not usually that tricky, except in some places. I'm not familiar enough with the DS2 to know whether glassing in a bailer is more than ordinarily challenging for some reason.

Do you have the replacement bailer in hand so you can measure it?

Re: New member - Same old bailer questions

PostPosted: Wed Jul 26, 2017 2:24 pm
by fatjackdurham
It's on the way. I am a little bit familiar with metal work, as a hobby. It opens up a lot of doors to new ideas.

My big problem is that I don't really do things "pretty" and nothing is uglier that ugly Fiber glass. YOu should have seen the stuff I pried off the boat. Diabolical.

Anyway, FloridaTom assures me the new bailer will fit well, so I will go ahead and cut out the aluminum shaft.

Re: New member - Same old bailer questions

PostPosted: Wed Jul 26, 2017 7:18 pm
by fatjackdurham
Came out just like FliridaTom said.

Thanks.

Re: New member - Same old bailer questions

PostPosted: Thu Jul 27, 2017 2:42 pm
by carl10579
You might have to flatten the fin on the bottom a little with a grinder. Watch you eyes.

Carl

Re: New member - Same old bailer questions

PostPosted: Thu Jul 27, 2017 3:19 pm
by fatjackdurham
carl10579 wrote:You might have to flatten the fin on the bottom a little with a grinder. Watch you eyes.

Carl


I presume you mean so that the new drain fits flush? I was wondering about that... Fortunately, the hole is "bogged" (correct term?) such that it has fiberglass top to bottom. Even if the bottom piece wasn't perfectly flush, the flange on the top would keep water out (if there is a rubber washer like a sink drain).

I considered using an adheasive/sealer to caulk around the piece. I'd appreciate input.