Thank you for the compliment, Green Lake. As it happens, I decided to keep my boat out of the water after hauling for tropical storm
Henri, so was able to cut my inspection port within feet of the barn and tools. Still, was very glad for all the thinking I did on my computer at home before tackling the job. Like
badgley (Brian Badgley), I tackled this on a super hot and humid day, but found the padding of my little backpack helpful to cushion head, elbow, knees, etc. as I changed positions. For breaks, I lay on my back and waved my hands in the breeze coming over the cuddy. (At least I was in the shade.
)
I spent about an hour measuring and marking before tracing the inverted screw cap just where I wanted it. Based on Brian's experience, I moved my hole 1/4" closer to the hull/outside (away from the seat/center of boat) than as illustrated in Roger's book with the pictures Tim Webb posted above. If anyone is interested, I can share measurements.
Being unfamiliar with cutting fiberglass, I used hand tools: (1) an old brace and ~1/4" bit (~6" long after inserting) with a feed screw (sharp point at the end); (2) a Master AllSaw whose tip was small enough to insert in my holes (still available for wood and metal); (3) a semi-round file. I made a practice hole in the middle and then cut about an inch straight to get the feel for the saw. Then put two holes on the circle and by bending the saw and putting a lot of pressure, pretty managed to make a circle (took about an hour for the cut). Used the file to round out some straight places and got a perfect fit of the flange. Will save drilling holes for screws for another day. Actually, since it's such a snug fit, I may forgo. Not like this port is going to see water . . . unless I capsize, which is always an outside possibility.
I took a bunch of "blind" photos through my new port. These two show exactly what Brian described finding behind his pulled out jib track.
Fiberglass covering only the middle of the board and rotting plywood on the ends. I removed a couple of handfuls of rot and will tackle more cleanup this weekend. I guess I can check the soundness of the wood including behind the fiberglass by jabbing a screwdriver at it. . . .
Does anyone have an "after" photo of this backside repair? (I will PM Brian if no one else posts.)
Do I need to fiberglass over any new wood I put back there or can I assume that what I put there will last 38 years (12250 was built in 1983) so I won't need to worry about it (I'm 61), or some other way to handle this?
I would still love answers to my question 1 in previous post. (My Q2, thickness Q, is answered by seeing what is there now.)
FYI, when answering . . . I think I read that there are two types on this forum . . . I'm not the sort who enjoys spending hours making improvements over the winter. (I'm out on my xc skis!)
I'm still a ways from deciding what to install for new jib tracks. Some interesting options. I'll be waiting to see what Rudy offers this fall.