A DSII doesn't have the same nice rubrail as a DS1.
Even with a DS1 I use fenders regularly, but not every time.
I launch from a dock that has a nice vertical wall of wooden planks and is protected from any wakes other than those of other boats being splashed. For tying up to prep for launch, I don't bother with fenders on a DS1 (and might not bother with them for a DSII).
The same style dock if exposed to passing powerboat wakes would result in a lot of slamming and I would use any kind of fender from 3.5" up. I would probably set up a 5.5" one a the widest part of the boat (suspended from the horn cleat on the cuddy as more secure but possibly from the chainplate/stay). And then tie bow and stern so the boat pivots. For a longer tie-up, I would add at least another fender at the stern, and pull the stern line a bit tighter.
Some docks have a nice vertical wall. Some swim low on the water but have the walking surface come out a few inches. Those can be challenging as that part can make contact with the boat, even if the fender touches the support structure below. In some cases, the height is such that the stern could make contact if raised by a wake. For those situations I like "low freeboard" fenders that are L shaped (their top is horizontal). As such, they always hang over the rubrail (and not tucked in below it), so you gain the extra inch or two of rubrail overhang.
On a busy dock (many wakes) I might tie two of these (one at the stern, one at the jib fairlead) over the rubrail and my largest "cylindrical" one at the chain plates.
More challenging are the docks where you just have a thin walking surface supported by posts, with ample space for the DS to dive under the dock. (All, or only the stern part). With wakes present the boat can not only dive under the dock, but slam against it from below. The only thing that works in that situation is a line to a pole or dock on the opposite side that keeps the DS off the dock you are tying to. I then tie front and stern so the boat ends up parallel to, but offset from the dock. There's enough slack in the system that you can pull the bow or stern towards the dock to step off temporarily, but the equilibrium will always keep the boat away from the dock even with wakes present.
Picture on the left shows a dock where I would use a L shaped fender in the rear and a wide cylindrical one at the chainplates. Dock's low enough to not allow the DS to dive under and presents a pretty good surface for fenders. Not much wake there, so even two 3.5" ones hung so they sit on the rubrail (not below) might work in the crunch. (However, if they sit that high they can be pushed up if there are waves/wakes).
The picture on the right shows the kind of dock that no amount of fenders alone will work on (although the picture doesn't show any, that spot is near a bridge opening and can get lots of wakes). Appears I had the line to the opposite side tied to the foredeck cleat - better to use the cuddy top cleats for better balance).
Both situations shown were from occasions where I stayed in sight of the boat while docked. Otherwise, I would have taken the sails down or secured things further.
Additional images showing various short term tie ups. All with remaining in sight of the boat. Usually some lines are used more like springs, to fix the fore-aft position and some across to hold the other end of the boat against the dock (and fender(s)). One shows sideways pull on the bow eye - that's not recommended, if leaving the boat, tie a line to the foredeck cleat instead.