Any tips on installing trunk pennant protection?

[Dixiewalker]

New to me DS II. April 1973, #6590. I need advice that I've not yet found in past DSO forum posts. Apologies if I just haven't searched well enough yet (point me in the right direction if that's the case!).

My question is how others have installed a metal plate in the CB trunk to protect the trunk from getting sawed by the DH pennant. I don't want to reinvent what other captains already figured out for access, materials and technique.

Rudy told me that, in early 1973, O'Day used DSI CB in the DSII, combined with their first iteration of UH and DH pennant orientation, and that my craft's layout lasted only a couple months before being abandoned - presumably bc they realized how poorly it worked (prior posts speculated some PO did awful
pennant attachments, and shoehorned in the wrong CB - but there are several post about 1973 DSII with identical configuration as mine, so it can't be coincidence all these 1973 craft have the same (bad) design and repurposed part - plus Rudy confirmed it was factory made this way).


(photo from Swashbucker's post about 10 years ago.He had 2 anchor holes. I have just one)
My UH and DH pennants originate on CB at the same spot - a single slot in the CB edge that runs into the body of the CB. The pennants run parallel through this slot into the body of the CB, where they are held by swages and washers. At the other end, the UH pennant terminates into the cuddy, which is common (but no shock cord). The DH pennant terminates on the the CB trunk aft of the jib cam cleats and fore of the mainsheet block. There are many photos of this configuration on other posts. The design has lousy leverage, and lines the pennant up to saw into the trunk. Here's a shot of my trunk damage (and where I want to install a metal plate).


Old posts advise filing down fg inside the CB trunk and gluing in a metal shield in its place, all by removing the block and working from above. But I find no suggestions how to go about doing this. It's a ridiculously narrow space and a very awkward angle.

Guidance would be appreciated, as would suitable metal or adhesives, if you've actually done the job. I am thinking of cutting a narrow strip from a 1" copper pipe connector and gluing in place with 4200 - if I can figure how to reach in there, or hold it in place while it cures (boat on trailer, no yard to careen)

I could install tangs in better locations, run new pennants, and modify the DH pennant to exit via the cuddy, but first I'm going to try it as built and see if it is good enough. This is my CB. You can see how lousy the mechanics are for both UH and DH with this pennant location

Thanks

[GreenLake]

I've careened my boat in the street. It shouldn't take long to take the CB out. In my case it was quick enough that I got away with the mast across a residential street for a few minutes.

One thing to do is to replace any wires with AmSteel rope. Should result in less cutting.

For metal: a rather thin strip of stainless steel from the H/W store should suffice. 1" wide. Instead of 5200 you could use an epoxy paste like MarineTex. REmember to degerease...

I can't advise on how to remove CB on your boat. Mine is different.

[Dixiewalker]

Thanks for suggesting materials, Greenlake.

I chose copper and 5200 simply because both are on hand. But once I bother to think beyond convenience, and look past Yankee frugality, I agree they're not the best.

A quick search shows copper hardness is 10 on the Rockwell scale, but stainless is over x8 harder, scoring 88.

Likewise, 3M 5200 has tensile strength of 700 psi, but Marine Tex is almost x6 stronger with 4,000 psi, plus a shear strength of 2,300 psi (for white).

I only plan to do this once, so stainless and Marine Tex are obviously more durable/stronger, and the proper choice.

Still left is figuring how to access the area. But figuring is where the fun is. And with temperatures quickly dropping below the minimum 55 degrees over 24 hours needed for Marine Tex to cure, I may have all winter to figure it out.

Once I get it done I'll try posting, for the benefit of the handful of craft out there with similar CB configuration.

[GreenLake]

The reason I haven't replied is that I don't have first hand experience with the DSII center board.

From a certain model year the pin is held by two wedges which can be removed from below.

That system seems easy and straightforward.

However, I seem to recall reading here that earlier model years used a different solution.

Best I can suggest in that case is to read well back in this forum section for anything related to the center board.

If you can remove and detach the CB there would be no temperature issues, of course. If that is not possible get Cold Cure from System Three. That's good to 35F. You may need a bit if thickening agent if there are noticeable gaps. Just to prevent the epoxy fromm running.