Type III hulls and keel stepped masts

[Guest]

I noticed in a discussion of class standards for racing that the type III DS hull is not approved. I assume this means the DS III hull. What is there about the type III hull that makes it non-standard?

Second, the standard called for a keel-stepped mast. I know that some DS models, such as the Spindrift line, stepped the mast on the top of the cuddy. Could someone enlighten me on why the keel-stepped mast is better, and why?

Ken Cobb (kcobb-at-bspmlaw.com)

[Guest]

The reason that the DS III is not "class-legal" is that O'Day changed the aft quarters of the hull to give the boat more freeboard, and thus the hull is not the same as the one on the DS I, II, and IV. The rumor that I heard is that O'Day also made these changes without first getting approval from the Day Sailer Class Association, hence the non-class-legal ruling.

Advantages of the "keel-stepped" mast are that it is a bit stiffer in that the mast-step and partner (deck opening) being 2' to 3' apart provide a bit of support not found with a deck stepped mast. It would be easier to bend a keel-stepped mast to flatten the mainsail, since the deck and step will restrain the lower end of the mast. A keel-stepped mast may also make it possible to quickly tack to avoid losing the mast should a stay break (still, upgrading to 1/8" wire is recommended!).
If you are racing (especially a DS I) I think class rules allow some fore & aft adjustment of the mast step on the keel stepped mast (don't quote me on that).
I think that class rules also allow internal halyards and with a keel-stepped mast they can exit the mast below decks, hence less windage and less lines to trip over on the cuddy top.
My DS II has a "keel-stepped" mast and there are a few disadvantages...one, the hole in the deck will leak in the rain (I'm working on making a mast boot), two, stepping and unstepping the mast is really a 2 person job, since you must lift the mast vertically to lower it thru the the deck and then align the butt with the step. Three, if (Heaven forbid!) a stay breaks and you can't tack soon enough to prevent further damage, you may do a lot of damage to the deck, or permanantly bend the mast extrusion. The previous owner of my boat DID break a shroud (actually both, but not at once!) and he was able to easily turn into the wind and drop the sails before the mast was damaged. At the moment, I still prefer to keep the keel-stepped design.
If you wish to convert, I'm sure that Cape Cod Shipbuilding, the present builder of the Day Sailer can do the work for you, they will certainly do a professional job....but it won't be cheap!

Rod Johnson (rjohnson24-at-juno.com)

[Guest]

Like Rod mentioned, the ability to prebend a keel-stepped mast is the primary advantage. Internal halyards are easier to implement as well. If you do not race, though, a deck-stepped mast makes a lot more sense. It's MUCH easier to step and it's also a bit shorter which helps when trailering (less overhang).

As to the cost, check w/ the Dwyer folks. I believe they make a kit, and I don't think it's all that expensive. Search the archives of this message board because I know this has been discussed here in the past.

Kevin Clark
Dallas, TX
DS 11791



Kevin Clark (clarkr-at-aud.alcatel.com)

[Guest]

D&R MARINE sells the parts to add the mast hinge, cost is about $40+/- . DWYER MASTS will sell you the same parts for about the same price, check their web-site.
D&R is at 508-644-3001


Rod Johnson (rjohnson24-at-juno.com)

[Guest]

I have just converted my keel-stepped mast to a tabernacle fitting that I purchased from Dwyer mast. It is so awesome! My wife and I have been sailing together and stepping the mast is really a pain. I cut my mast with a chop saw and carbide blade at the appropriate height, added the tabernacle with a bit of persuasion with a hammer (don't hit the castings!). It was a tight fit, but it did go in, and then pop-riveted them for good measure. The bottom piece of the mast sits on the step same as before, it just has a hinge at deck level. There is a great deal of torque on the hinge, so I epoxied the lower portion to the step, bedded the mast around the deck with 3M 5200 (fast cure), and used a few stainless through-bolts through the deck, and Ouila!!!! "Enfin" is soooo much easier, I can single-handedly raise the mast without damaging my pretty paint-job and reduce the chances of a hernia! I added turnbuckles (which are overkill in terms of strength) and went up to 1/8 inch wire. Make sure you don't have the ends of the turnbuckles unscrew and fall off when trailering, (this cost me about $60) I now tape them with duct tape to the trailer!!

Eric J. Nelson (nelsonjnelson-at-msn.com)