by DigitalMechanic » Wed Sep 14, 2016 11:40 pm
Lash a tape measure to the main halyard and raise it all the way up. Then measure the distance from the masthead to the transom with the tape measure. You want to be in the ball park of 25' or just short if there is no tension on the rig. Once the rig is tightened down it should be 25' plus an inch or two (give or take). Then take your main halyard and bring it to each chain plate of the side stays and keep adjusting the tension on them until the halyard touches the gunwale chainplate at the same length (on the halyard) on each side to get a straight mast. Go back and check your masthead to transom distance to make sure that it is in the ballpark spec of 25' ish (plus an inch or two). If not tighten or loosen the forestay turnbuckle as necessary. I have a loose gauge to measure the tension, and I have roughly 110lbs on the forestay and 180lbs on the sides tays if I remember correctly. I was told that my rig should be tightened up considerably by a guy who races boats. I told him I would prefer for it to not be that snug considering the boat is 40 years old. He said for cruising it felt fine then. Other racing rigging guides will tell you to go as much as 300-400lbs on the stays. Rudy at D&R told me to just make sure they have a twang when plucked and should go sloppy when the boat heals. I believe that is what the I have at 110/180lbs, and the leeward stay does go sloppy. You have to play with it for a little bit on the trailer to get it close enough to start, and everything lined up. Then go sailing and see if the boat handles correctly. If it does you should get slight weather helm going upwind that draws you into the wind when you release the rudder. The boats natural reaction should be to round up (into the wind) and stall when not under command. If the boat does this correctly, as I previously mentioned you will be able to use the rudder as a gas pedal of sorts. To power up when going upwind, steer the boat away from the wind (pull the tiller toward you), putting more pressure/power on the sail. To power down, let the tiller go away from you (it will do this on it's own), and the boat will draw itself into the wind and begin to stall. Fun stuff. Tweaking it out is not really that bad. I think it took me an hour or so with it set up on the trailer. After you sail you can make minor adjustments if you see fit. But your adjustments on the trailer alone should put you near where you want to be and your next sail should be a good one.
Edit:
Oh, I almost forgot. When you get everything in place, you have to measure the mast pre-bend. You can take your main halyard and pull it straight down to the bottom of the mast and press it to the mast track near the tabernacle or gooseneck (thereabouts). You should be able to see a 1 inch gap between the halyard rope and the mast half way up near the spreaders. If you have a 1 inch gap your rake should be set. If not you will have to tighten/loosen the rig down to bend the mast more/less.
Last edited by
DigitalMechanic on Thu Sep 15, 2016 7:43 am, edited 1 time in total.