Topics primarily or specifically about the DS1. Many topics are of general interest, so please use forum sections on Rigging, Sails, etc. where appropriate.
Just a suggestion - I did this a year or so ago. Tricky to just use dimensions.Take some cardboard and make a template. When you get to actually making the coaming make sure you use wood which will bend to fit the slight curvature of the cockpit. I think I used 5/8" mahogany - maybe it was 1/2". Boat is not where I can immediately measure it.
Hi Fred, good suggestion by Clyde. I did my coamings last month. It is more important to use timber which will twist and bend. I used 4" x 1/2" DAR Clear Pine, clamped it in place, pencilled lines for top and bottom to fit side deck profile and then cut with a jig saw a bit over size. Then I planed and sanded by hand to finish. No template as the twist in the horizontal and vertical shape (compound curve) would make template difficult. Cheers Greg
Easy enough to do both for me. I have some pattern paper and will make patterns for solarwinds and mail them out to him. I'll also take measurments and put them here somewhere for future reference.
Have to wait until tomorrow though the winds and temps are not in humans favor today, approx. 8 degree F and W25G40
One more thing that is tricky - there is a slight fore/aft vertical curve that you have to get right. I did it by cutting out the shape from the template. The bending or twisting is needed of course to follow the cockpit curve. Also rather tricky is getting the cross piece right.
If you are doing floorboards as well there are dimensions posted on this forum. I made a mock-up using cheap wood paneling, made the necessary minor corrections then used it as a template. Problem? Adds weight but sure looks pretty. But then I don't race so doesn't matter to me.
Good luck on your project. I feel it will add a lot to the looks of your boat.
I made the patterns and will send them out tomorrow. A little rough but should be able to get pretty close with them. Due to the shape the coamings will require quite wide boards, I would guess close to 8". I did take measurements off a datum plane and will graph it out later. I'm not really a computer graphics guy but I'll figure it out. The sides are 8' long (actually 95" I think and the rear is slightly over 4' (52" plus or minus). My boards were 0.440" thick.
Clyde- Pillar Point is on the north east corner of Lake Ontario, just below Canada. A good place to sail 3 months a year, sailable 6 months, a good place to live 9 months, then there's winter.
I have a 1970 model that I am replacing the coaming. I really would like to get the sweeping top curve right. How high are the comings above the deck? About how far aft of the cuddy do they become parallel to the deck? What is the max width at the forward end? Aft end? The PO used hardy plank and they are not fair enough to use as patterns. Thank you.
The first point where it's possible to take a measurement from the deck (because of the way the cuddy opening sweeps back) is 5 1/4" past where the coaming top meets the cuddy opening. At that point, it's 3" above the deck and the coaming has a total height of 6".
At the point closes to the transom, the total height is 4" and it's 1.5" above the deck.
Notice that the bottom edge of the coaming apparently isn't fully parallel to the deck. As to whether that's a design feature or just "happened" with my boat, I cannot advise you. It may be that the forward elevation of the coaming depend on how the fit into the cuddy opening, because they do extend forward a bit. Also, the bottom edge sweeps up in front so that there is only one corner (forward top) with the forward bottom a gentle radius.
The point where the elevation above the deck becomes constant 1.5" is about 30+5 1/4" inches past the point where the coaming top meets the cuddy. At that point, the total width of the coaming is 4.25 (The changeover is so gradual that you won't notice a few inches up or down).
12+5 1/4" the total width of the coaming is 5" and it's 2 1/8" above the deck. A foot further aft it's 4 3/8 and 1 5/8.
All measurements are at best accurate to 1/8" because I eyeballed them against the round top edge of the coaming.
For the top curve, just plot the measurements I gave you and then bend a nice flexible batten so it meets or gets close to these points. That way you get a fair curve.