#37

Topics primarily or specifically about the DS1. Many topics are of general interest, so please use forum sections on Rigging, Sails, etc. where appropriate.

Moderator: GreenLake

Re: #37

Postby GreenLake » Sat Aug 25, 2018 6:17 pm

Enjoy!

(And yes, standing in front of an actual boat, taking in everything, gives a much better perspective !)
~ green ~ lake ~ ~
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Re: #37

Postby DesertRat » Wed Sep 12, 2018 12:58 pm

It's nice to see a good example of an early specimen, with so much of the original intact.

I recently inherited a similar early specimen. I haven't had the chance to look it over completely yet, haven't even taken the sails out of the bag to see if there's a number. From the looks of things, it's probably a 1960 vintage-- rounded c/b case, mahogany side benches, no engine well, etc.

Are these early models sacred in any way? Or are they just utility and fun? Would future a future buyer care if I enclosed the cuddy as on the DS II? Or even chopped the cuddy to build a companionway hatch? Or is this like a Model T Ford that should be restored with exactitude?

I'll start a separate thread eventually...
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Re: #37

Postby GreenLake » Wed Sep 12, 2018 3:29 pm

My take: some hull/deck modifications may render a boat non-compliant under class rules. Or, if not well done, may create a Frankenboat look. In those cases, you may have a harder time selling your boat to anyone interested in racing under class rules or with a healthy aesthetic sense.

Conversely you may beautifully restore a boat and get some future buyer to appreciate that to the point they are willing to pay more.

Basing my estimate on the boats offered here on the forum as well as some general insights from a friend who used to buy, fix-up and sell small boats, I would suspect that in the latter case you won't get your money back, so this is something for people who like doing the work as a labor of love. For the same token, I don't think there's a special market niche for older boats from "classic" model years, but in need for restoration.

The former consideration is more apropos: there are people intending to race their DS. I don't think they dominate the market, but they slightly prefer early 60's DS1s in good shape over later models. Anything done to the boat that violates class rules, especially if not easily reversible, will make these people look elsewhere. Depending on where you are in the country and what your plans are, this is one factor that may make a difference in deciding on whether to make certain changes.

Other than that, my thought is that the DS should be used & enjoyed, cruised & raced, and you shouldn't needlessly hesitate to go forward with well-considered plans to adapt it to maximize your use of the boat: especially if you plan to sail it for many years to come.
~ green ~ lake ~ ~
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Re: #37

Postby GreenLake » Wed Sep 12, 2018 3:38 pm

Finally, some of the extreme makeovers (or contemplated makeovers) I've read about smack of attempts to turn the boat into some other boat. At that point, why?

You would be better off getting a boat that already does what you want. For example, a companionway hatch: yes, it's been done, but why? If you want to cruise with an actual small cabin, an O'Day Mariner would be a much better choice (it's a bit longer, and heavier, but the feel is similar to a DS, with the same large cockpit). Or, if you'd rather stay with the same size, a West Wight Potter 15 represents an excellent choice for pocket cruiser.

If you simply want an enclosed cuddy, just sell the DS1 and buy a DSII.
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Re: #37

Postby ctstrick » Sun Sep 23, 2018 4:02 pm

Tom - I remember seeing this boat on Craigslist a few weeks ago. Glad to see she went to a good home to be restored! I'm working on #2683 from 1967 over in Raleigh. New spreader bars and brackets this weekend (mine had the poorly designed "Javelin" ones you read about here) plus a topping lift. I look forward to seeing more of how #37 comes back to life - good Fall sailing!

Cary
CT
1967 DS1 #2683
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Re: #37

Postby tomodda » Fri Sep 28, 2018 10:23 am

Hi Folks:

Some progress on #37, then a long delay... I was overseas, a close brush from Hurricane Flo, and LOTS of rain. But, I've got the bilges cleaned out and painted, along with pulling all the rotted seat supports (cleats), tightened all loose hardware, and checked all the foam (nice and dry):

IMG_20180828_083839-800x600.jpg
Bilges
IMG_20180828_083839-800x600.jpg (61.54 KiB) Viewed 12516 times


And I stripped all the flaking paint (3 layers!) from the topsides:

IMG_20180904_185549-800x600.jpg
Stripped
IMG_20180904_185549-800x600.jpg (138.74 KiB) Viewed 12516 times


There's still some paint in the "grooves" on the deck, I need to go back over this. Also doing some gelgoat repair:

IMG_20180904_185528-800x600.jpg
Foredeck
IMG_20180904_185528-800x600.jpg (92.14 KiB) Viewed 12516 times


In the meantime, someone local was selling a DS1 rudder. Since it was in much better shape than my rudder, I bought it and spent some time repairing dings and painting. My OCD tendencies are pushing me to reshape the top end of the blade (it's FLAT across the foreside of the first 3 inches or so.. seriously, O'Day?!?). But... need to calm down, my Falltime goal is to get the boat in the water, sailing. All I need for that are seats, actually just the centerboard thwarts. I have some nice tropical hardwood getting delivered today and am looking forward to making expensive wood chips.... :)
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Re: #37

Postby tomodda » Fri Sep 28, 2018 10:39 am

Answering some folks on this thread - thank you for your interest and responses!:

@DesertRat, No, the early boats aren't intrinsically worth anything more, from what I see online. That being said as GreenLake wrote, the racers love 'em because they're light. I'm not planning to race, well, not seriously anyway.. there's a beer-can winter series on our local lake... and yes, that's how the bug starts! Anyway, the more you drastically modify the boat, the harder it will be to sell, but then again your work is probably worth more than the hull itself. It's up to you. Why enclose the cuddy? What are you trying to do (end goal)? Again, as Greenlake wrote, you're best off not trying to make this boat into something that it isn't - buy a different boat instead. But there are ways to do most anything, as long as you're realistic. Would be happy to discuss further either in separate thread or private messages.

@CT. Hi Fellow Tarheel! I'm over in the Dirty D, aka Durham. Assuming that I get my thwarts built tomorrow, I'm going to launch from Farrington Point on Sunday. Want to meet up? PM me, please. And yes, I have some mast work ahead of me too - take the jumper stays off, replace a spreader, lubricate the masthead sheaves, etc. Always sump'n. But, we're not going to get more that 6 knot winds over the weekend, so should be fine for a shake-down sail. Poor boat looks like a peeled egg right now, but she'll float!
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Re: #37

Postby GreenLake » Fri Sep 28, 2018 4:47 pm

nice progress!
~ green ~ lake ~ ~
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Re: #37

Postby Cliff » Tue Oct 16, 2018 1:47 pm

Tom,

Have you put the seats back in? Any pics?
Cliff
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Re: #37

Postby tomodda » Tue Oct 16, 2018 3:16 pm

Cliff:

Here ya go:

IMG_20181016_090958-800x600.jpg
New Seats
IMG_20181016_090958-800x600.jpg (109.54 KiB) Viewed 12444 times


Honestly, I didn't want to show these till I got them all nicely oiled and purdy, but since you're asking.... :)

A few notes:

-I did these as planks because I like the look better. You can't see well from this angle, but the outermost and innermost planks are curved. The curve was the hardest part to do. The planks are connected to each other with three crosswise 1x1 strips underneath. Tropical hardwood (Cumaru), so plenty of strength. There are no supports for the seats other than the steel plate between seats and thwarts (underneath) and the cleats around the sides (bulkheads).

-If you blowup the photo a bit, you'll see that I have bronze "studs" holding the seats at the bulkheads. Those are actually bronze wood screws with a bronze "finishing washer", saves me the trouble of countersinking.

-I did not want to put any screws or countersinks, or plugs in the areas where I'd actually sit, so the connection to the centerboard and to the steel connecting plate are screwed in underneath the seats. This also is proving to be a pain... every screwhole needs to be pre-drilled and even though I test-fit, marked and pre-drilled the holes with the boards out of the boat, of course some are off. So now I have to drill and screw in a 10-inch space under the seat, not fun! Doable with an angle drill attachment, but my poor shoulders as I scrunch myself in there.... OK, first world problems :)

-On the positive side, I made these seats 16" wide instead of the original 12". I did some test measurements on my butt to come up with an ideal seat width :lol: The extra space makes them much more comfortable for sitting, Ok to lie down on (like a narrow single bed, but I've slept on worse before), and doesn't impede my legroom for putting feet down on the bilges, even up by the centerboard.


OK! Way more than you wanted to know about seats. I have to finish the underneath screwing (that sounds just wrong!) and then give it another light sanding and oil it (using Penofin Marine Oil). Then I'll post FINAL pics. Gotta clean the storm debris out of the bilges as well, always sump'n to do.

Tom
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Re: #37

Postby GreenLake » Tue Oct 16, 2018 5:15 pm

Because your feet can fit underneath the opposite bench, making them wider is indeed an option.

Looks great.
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Re: #37

Postby tomodda » Tue Oct 16, 2018 7:42 pm

Thank you! My real worry was leaving enough room if I sit up by the centreboard. Once again, I measured my own big ol feet and used that as a guide. Just fits. But I'm more prone to put my feet up on the board anyways, so no worries.
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Re: #37

Postby Cliff » Wed Oct 17, 2018 12:08 am

Tom

They are gorgeous--
Cliff
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Oily Goodness

Postby tomodda » Tue Oct 23, 2018 10:08 am

Hi Folks:

Finally! Seats are finished, properly screwed down and oiled. Coamings have also been sanded down to bare wood, cleaned and oiled. Yes, I went with marine oil (Penofin) rather than varnish or epoxy. Why? Varnish peels and is a royal pain to lay down (paint/sand/paint/sand/etc). And I'm getting pretty allergic to laminating epoxy in my young age... Of course, I'll have to re-apply the oil 2-3 times a year, but that's no big deal on such a small amount of wood. Anyway:

IMG_20181021_183346-800x600.jpg
Seat and Coamings from Aft
IMG_20181021_183346-800x600.jpg (71.68 KiB) Viewed 12358 times


And:

IMG_20181021_183532-800x600.jpg
Seat and Coaming, Freshly Oiled
IMG_20181021_183532-800x600.jpg (102.62 KiB) Viewed 12358 times


These photos show the seats still wet from fresh oil. After spending the night under a tarp, the oil dried / absorbed into the wood quite nicely, leaving a satin sheen. Next step is painting the decks and bulkheads, but that can wait (even though the boat looks like a peeled egg!). I'm very happy with the woodwork and ready to sail.

Tom
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Re: #37

Postby Cliff » Tue Oct 23, 2018 12:30 pm

tom

Getting better with every shot. The oil shows the wood grain well. I think the plank seats blend well with the simulated plank decks.

I imagine you have metal brackets at the seat thwart connection held on with wood screws. Any way to show this connection?
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