Hi Nick:
Great pics, glad you have everything rigged up. Also glad that my links were of some use, there is tons of information on this forum. Now get out there and sail! As GreenLake is gently hinting to you, don't worry too much about the details, learn to walk before you can run. The beauty of sailing is that the more you know, the more there is to learn, it's a life-long journey. A few belated thoughts and comments, for what they are worth:
-Your green line (#5) is the VANG, not the cunningham. The Boom Vang is a very essential control, especially on our little DaySailers. When I was growing up, we used the Vang to keep the boom from rising up when running off the wind and that's it (your setup is rigged for just that, tell you why in a sec). Turns out that the Vang does so much more, it's the essential control for shaping the main upwind and down. It does so much! Leech tension, sail twist, mast bend, flattening the main, even affects the jib. Have you ever driven a stick-shift (manual) car? Think of the mainsheet like the gas pedal and the vang like your stick-shift - the sheet for power, the vang for HOW you apply your power. We've had plenty of discussions on this forum about using the vang (search for "vang sheeting" and just "vang"), and I thank GreenLake for really opening my eyes on how to use it. When used properly, the vang takes on a LOT of tension. Your vang setup is 5-1, which is barely adequate - 12-1 is more like it, and mine is 20-1. Not saying you need to upgrade tomorrow, just saying that you'll eventually want to. More immediately, you'll want a cam-cleat for the vang instead of your V-cleat. You'll never get the vang off the v-cleat under tension, and it'll eventually destroy your rope. Again, do some sailing first, and your setup is fine for running off the wind, where there is less tension. But soon enough, you'll want to replace that cleat. In the meantime, some light reading: http://www.sailingbreezes.com/Sailing_Breezes_Current/Articles/Aug00/dell0800.htm
-Ahem, you're doing it wrong with your barber haulers. You want to set them up so that the lines cross over from Port to Starboard and vice-versa. Why? Because when you are sitting on the high side (windward), you don't want to have to reach over to the low side (leeward) to work the barber hauler. If you cross the lines over, then you'll have the end of the hauler right at hand. Your jam-cleats (the black resin ones) are also backwards, you'll want the jaws to face outboard, instead of inboard like they are now. As long as you are repositioning the jam cleats, you may want to put them on the rear lip of the cuddy opening - the short little "wall" hanging down Why? Because where you have it now, the jib is apt to "hook" towards the mainsail, throwing wind onto the wrong side of the sail. Remember, the whole point of the barber haul is to closely fit the curve of the back part (leech) of the jib to the curve of the mainsail - when you look down the "slot" (space between the main and the jib), you should see two parallel curves about 18-ish inches apart. Pull on the barber hauler and you narrow the gap, which can be very good in the right conditions (there's an art to it). Again, (race)car analogy, it's like an adjustable front air dam/lip spoiler - controls the air flow. Unless you hook your jib, then it destroys the flow! Set your controls close at hand but away from the jib clew (back corner), back lip of the cuddy is perfect. Personally, I have my barber haulers attach 9 inches off the centerline, going further outboard would allow the clew to ride too high, further inboard tightens the leech. But this is easily changed later (just move the cleat), so don't sweat it. Beware, space is tight behind the cuddy lip because there's a length of rebar right there, holding up the roof... drill carefully, don't expose the rebar (or it'll rust later). Use a longish machine screw (2 inches or so), washers and a lock nut. The barber hauler doesn't get a lot of tension on it (25ish pounds at most), so use a thin screw, #6 or #8 is fine. For more reading, see my PPS below.
-Did you rig your aft "traveler" yet? The one from your sketch? If not, and if I may make the suggestion, hold off on that for now. Tie the two ends of the aft bridle (triangle) together and put'em on a hook, like GreenLake and Phil Root do. Or, if you have cleats at the back of your boat, just tie each end of your bridle to those. Keep it simple, for now. Once you've learned how to sail, you'll want to play with the height of the rear mainsheet block off the deck before you worry about adjusting side-to-side. Mine is about 18" of the rear deck, when I'm reaching or running I wish it would be higher and when it's blowing hard I wish it would be less, but it's a good compromise. GreenLake's setup with a hook is a good, SIMPLE way to adjust that, either on (short) or off (long). If you want more adjustability, try a Crosby RIg Bridle. Your proposed traveller and pulley system is great if you want to bring the mainsheet block upwind of the centerline, but... honestly... I've never needed to do that in two years of sailing the DS. The VANG is the control you really need, not the traveler. Now, all boats are different - my old quarter-tonner absolutely required me to sail with the traveler to windward of the center, and it was a "nice-to-have" feature on my catamarans. Everyone also has a different preferred style. You may want a fully-adjustable up-and-down, side-to-side rear bridle one day, some folks do it exactly like you are proposing (that sure looks like a typical setup for a Thistle). But again, learn to walk before you run, K.I.S.S..... Once more, some light reading: https://forum.daysailer.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=3120
-The jib-downhaul is great to have, my first few sails without one were very frustrating as the jib kept trying to ride back up the forestay (the wind blows it up) after I doused it.That being said, you can - and want to - use a much thinner line. Windage (drag) and weight are to be avoided, so you want the thinnest you can get that won't cut your hands. I use 2mm spectra braided line, really thin stuff, but anything small that you have laying around is fine. The downhaul is one of the few places where you can go really small (or go home!), spiderwebs would almost do the trick. At a later date, let's talk about my 2:1 reverse purchase jib downhaul. GL wrote that it's overkill (or words to that effect, but I love it.
-Did you rig a mainsail outhaul yet? That's next.....
Man, I'm getting pretty far into the weeds here, sorry! But you're the one who decided to rig the "fancy" controls. You don't need barber hauler, vang, etc to SAIL, just get out there and have fun. And believe me you WILL be changing your rig in the future, constantly. That''s the fun of the DS, there is always something you can tweak and it won't break the bank to do it. Go sail!
All the best,
Tom
P.S.: What's with line #6, your below-deck jib tensioner? What's it attached to, exactly? Just wondering. I've rigged a jib-halyard tensioner on my DS (using a setup I stole from Hobie-Cats), but it's completely different. Again, this is not a control you need right now, but I'm curious.
Again for what it's worth, I just wrote that tweaking the rig on a DS is cheap (won't break bank) - my jib halyard tensioner was the most expensive single control I've rigged on the boat, cost me just shy of $100. Coulda done it much cheaper, but I wanted it MY WAY, so I treated myself to an early birthday present last year. But you really don't have to spend a lot. Ebay and used boat parts stores are the way to go. And my favorite hardware makers - racelitehardware.com.
P.P.S: <Cut/Paste from North Sails Daysailer Tuning Guide> Dave Keran, Day Sailer National Champion, describes his method and set-up of using his inhaulers below. Thanks, David!
“The barberhaulers exit from through-deck bullseyes on the vertical face on the aft end of the cuddy. The exits are about 8” from centerline and lines cross to the other side of the boat from where they exit. We sail with the barberhauler block positioning the jibsheet 12” off centerline which means the block is 20” from the bullseye. I believe that the position of the bullseye (both fore and aft and laterally) and the length of the barberhauler line are important in getting the right trim on the jib. If the lines exit forward, on the top of the cuddy, they cause the jib to cup into the main when closehauled and the shape becomes less than optimal. Secondly if jib is pulled down to the cuddy either by a short line or to a track with a block I think the leach gets too tight. By allowing the barberhauler block to float I feel the jib is properly tensioned on the leach and the foot.”