Rubrail replacement on DS1

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Rubrail replacement on DS1

Postby Guest » Tue Apr 04, 2000 12:00 am

I just aquired a 1967 DS1. It is all there except the rubrails. I have looked but can not find a suitable replacement. Any good ideas on how to fabricate an attractive and functional rubrail?

Tom Beck (tbeck-at-famvid.com)
Guest
 

Postby Guest » Wed Apr 05, 2000 12:00 am

West Marine offers several rubrails styles that should work. They are on the WEB. Of course, they may be unsuitable due to the high price tag (approx $100)...

Kevin Clark (clarkr-at-aud.alcatel.com)
Guest
 

Postby Guest » Wed Apr 05, 2000 12:00 am

Check the "Repair and Improvement" section on this site. I remember a "Hamilton's Marine" (or something like that) offered suitable replacements at a more reasonable price.

barry (bfk-at-sdcity.sannet.gov)
Guest
 

Postby Guest » Wed Apr 05, 2000 12:00 am

Hamilton Marine, rt 1, Searsport, Maine (ph 207-548-6302) (fax 800-639-2715) has a really good catalog that has a large group of rubrails (they call it Heavy Duty PVC Molding Sections) such that I'd think you should be able to find one that fits your boat's requirements.Look for their web-site, you can order their catalog from there @ www.hamiltonmarine.com.
I heard about them on this website, got the catalog, ordered the rubrail interior support only for my 82 Spindrift DS1. Received an exact replacement, slid my old rubrail on & voila, good as new, sorta.
They sent twice as much as I ordered & it took a while to get a return authorization (christmas rush, I guess) but I was pleased with their overall service.
Hamilton's catalog is pretty cool- intended for Northeast commercial boaters primarily, but it has good small boat stuff. Different from West & BoatUS & Competitively priced.

Good luck.

Lynn Larremore
Houston, TX
DS11539


Lynn Larremore (lynn.larremore-at-ss.ps.ge.com)
Guest
 

Postby Guest » Thu May 03, 2001 10:44 am

I am going to replace the Rubrail on my 1967 DS-1. Is it necessary to replace the plastic molding that holds the rail in place at the same time? The short section I inspected looks like it is stapled to the hull seam, and is broken into sections. I figure the rubrail slides into place over it, but is there too much friction to slide the new rail around the entire boat. Is there another use for "Sailcoat' (or some other material) as a rubrail replacement lube? Is the new rubrail fixed to the plastic molding as it is installed? Finally, how do I get the rubrail to lay flat around the bow? Stretch the hell out of it and see what happens? For those of you who have been sent to search for a "skyhook" on a camping trip...can you ask the local boatyard to borrow their "rubrail stretcher"? Let me know which design works best!

barry (kellbtl-at-aol.com)
Guest
 

Postby Guest » Wed May 09, 2001 3:33 pm

I replaced the rubrail on my DS 1 with one from Hamilton Marine. The great part is that they make a cheap rubrail and I used pop-rivets and 3M 5200 to install it. It has had no problems except where it makes a hard turn around the corners at the stern and at the bow. I would use clamps next time and really suck it in tight around the corners. Alot of goo really makes it stick well, and it costed me about $30 for the whole thing versus the $100 for the recommended replacement rub-rail that comes in two parts. I have found a little resourcefulness means that cheap but effective fixes can be just as good as the expensive. The 5200 will also seal the deck/hull joint so no moisture can get in and damage this sensitive spot for the older DS 1's. Good lick. E

Eric J. Nelson (nelsone-at-husson.edu)
Guest
 

Postby Guest » Thu May 10, 2001 1:16 pm

I replaced my rubrail with a white garden hose (I know...I must be the cheapest guy in the bar). It actually looks alright...even has a little blue line running down the length of it. But for 30 bucks, I'd go with what the previous poster suggested. In fact...I may replace my little hose this summer with real rubrail.



Chris (will592-at-yahoo.com)
Guest
 

Postby Guest » Tue May 15, 2001 6:05 pm

Thanks. The 5200 sounds like a great idea. Did you reuse the plastic molding attached to the boat? How did you get the new rubrail to lay flat around the bow and on the corners of the transom?

barry (kellbtl-at-aol.com)
Guest
 

Postby Guest » Tue May 22, 2001 2:18 pm

If you have (or contemplait getting) the 2 part rub rail type replacement here are a few tips:

1. You do not need to replace the inner, hard plastic rail unless it is broken. It is the foundation for the rub rail system and is what keeps the rubber outer rail in place. Cut of and replace only what is not solidly in place unless you want to really do it right

2. To install the rubber outer rail:
A. Unlike the inner rail, this must be totally replaced. It really does not work to try to 'patch' in sections.
B. Mark the midpoint between the ends of the rubrail on what will be the underside of the rail. This is the point opf the rail that will be 'bent' around the bow of the boat. (I don't remember how long a 'new' piece of rail is. I would have to look at the one I have stored in the garage)
C. Coil the rail in a large bucket and fill the bucket with steaming hot water. Let it sit for about 10 minutes. This softens the rubrail so it bends & stretches well.
D. When the rail has softened, quickly remove it from the bucket and, with the help of several friends, center the rail at the mark at the bow, open the rail and press it over the inner rail, stretching the rail as it rounds the bow to conform to its shape. Continue down both sides of the boat pulling aft just hard enough to keep the stretch in the rail at the bow (the amount of pressure will decrease as you move aft) until you reach the aft corners. Pull/stretch the rail around the corners and gently clamp in place untill the rubrail has cooled (and will maintain its shape).
e. The outer rail can be riveted in place by drilling two holes at the end, putting a #10 stainless steel washer under the head of a pop rivet, pushing the rivet through a hole, placing a second SS washer under the rail (on the rivet) and drawing the washer up as you 'pop' the rivet. Finish with the raub rail end caps (does Schaeffer Marine still makes these?)

If you have some sort of rubber (type) rubrail without an inner rail I would think Heating the sections that need to conform to hard curves would help too.

Keith Bay (kabay-at-execpc.com)
Guest
 

Postby Guest » Wed May 23, 2001 7:47 am

I would like to add a ribrail to my DSII, which does not have one. Will the one from Hamilton work?

John Rosser (jer8533-at-bellatlantic.net)
Guest
 

Postby Guest » Thu May 24, 2001 2:15 pm

Thanks Keith. Just the info I was looking for.

barry (kellbtl-at-aol.com)
Guest
 

Re: Rubrail replacement on DS1

Postby toby » Tue Mar 26, 2019 4:08 pm

If you have to replace the inner hard plastic rail, how do you hold that rail in place? Thanks in advanced.
toby
 
Posts: 1
Joined: Tue Dec 04, 2018 7:41 pm

Re: Rubrail replacement on DS1

Postby GreenLake » Tue Mar 26, 2019 7:08 pm

Welcome to the forum, Toby. You win the award for reviving the oldest thread :D

I'm not sure anyone from that era is still an active member here, but perhaps someone else has attempted to fix their rubrail since? Mine is split at the bow, but has otherwise clung on tenaciously so I decided to leave well-enough alone and therefore can't offer any direct experience.

I see three possibilities: One, the inner rail just "floats", held onto the boat by tension in the rubrail. Two, that is is glued in place with some adhesive caulking. Three, that it is riveted through the flanges. Of these, option one seems a bit unlikely as you would be able to pull at the rubrail a bit. I can't recall mine doing that.

However, I note that DR Marine sells the rigid plastic rail. Rudy would know how to install it, so just give him a call.
~ green ~ lake ~ ~
GreenLake
 
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