DaySailer.org Forum

I took my wife and kids out for a harbor sail on Saturday. The gusts were probably to 15mph. After about 40 minutes of sailing, there was a POP and the mast was down. Fortunately, no one was hurt and we got a quick tow to an upwind dock where we were able to get the sails off and then the mast back on board. It was a long paddle back to the ramp!

The windward shroud failed and then the mast snapped at the deck.

I am now considering my replacement options. I don't think this is repairable.

A huge bummer. This was only our third sail since buying the boat!

Some photos:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/66905934@ ... otostream/

https://www.flickr.com/photos/66905934@ ... otostream/

https://www.flickr.com/photos/66905934@ ... otostream/

Did you have a hinged mast or a one piece mast? If a one piece, you could install a hinge with a lower section. The broken stay looks like the original 3/32" type. Might want to get the upgrade 1/8" stays from D&R Marine with turnbuckles. If you have to get a new mast, you can check around for a used one or get a new one, either a blank to attach your hardware to of get one fully rigged. Are there any boat salvage lots in your area?

John

I just upgraded my DS 1 with a proctor tapered mast. If you are anywhere near Massachusetts, I have a mast in excellent condition for sale. Has all new haylards and even have the boom if interested.

It was a one piece mast

The shipping from the east coast is what stings! There's a 72 for sale near me in good shape for $850 but then I'd have two hulls!

I like the idea of making it a hinged mast

SunnyDaze wrote:I like the idea of making it a hinged mast

That's what I did after I heard that same POP. Also followed John's suggestion to upgrade to stronger stays, as well as getting the beefed up chainplates, and backing them with SS tubing. Pics in my gallery.

D&R Marine sells the complete mast hinge. If you decide to make your mast hinged, be sure to take into account the length of the hinge plates yo get the mast the correct length. Your lower section can be made from the part below the break.

John

I have ordered the parts for the hinged mast and I am ready to begin this project.

How do I cut the mast?

Used a hacksaw and a miter box when I did TRW's. Came out nice and straight and clean.

I made my tabernacle this weekend and it was easier than I thought. However, I did use the two pieces of the mast and the lower piece after being cut is about 1/2 inch shorter than I'd like it to be. The heads of the bolts that I tapped to attach the tabernacle to the lower section are rubbing slightly against the deck.

Can I add a plywood base inside the boat to give me a little extra height? I don't know what the mast base piece screws into and if there are bolts on the other side that are inaccessible. Also I don't know if it would violate the class rules, although this is not a big concern.

If I update my stays, do I need the new turnbuckles or can I use the ones I have?

You could always just order an extrusion from Dwyer that's the length you want for the stub? Seems easier than fussing with the step, which is screwed into a piece of wood (plywood?) that's glassed in between the compression post and cuddy sole. Reason I know this is because ChrisB had to cut out a section of his, due to a mis-aligned post that caused a crack in the sole:



As far as the turnbuckles go, the new stays come with the threaded studs already swaged on, so as long as your existing turnbuckle bodies fit those, you could use them.

If you order the new stays from D&R, they come with the new turnbuckles.

John

TIM WEBB wrote:You could always just order an extrusion from Dwyer that's the length you want for the stub? Seems easier than fussing with the step, which is screwed into a piece of wood (plywood?) that's glassed in between the compression post and cuddy sole.

If you dislike the expense, remember, once you cut your mast, the lower portion is "just" a compression post.

What that means is that you could certainly cut the mast section below the deck, separate it to add the required length. To maintain the separation, insert and throughbolt a piece of hardwood to transfer the compression loads. That way the two ends have the mast profile (where it matters, going into the step/tabernacle) but you get the length you need. Because the loads are expected to be pure compression, that fix is easier than sleeving a broken mast.

Something like an 18" to 24" long piece planed/sanded for snug fit, and held by 2-3 bolts on either side of the gap should do the trick. (Seal the wood in epoxy first, so it doesn't take up moisture and can't swell/shrink any more).

More radical would be to dispense with the bolts. You could make the wood insert go the whole length, so that it takes the full compression load and the mast stub pieces just act as adapter for tabernacle and mast step (depends on the way the tabernacle casting is set up). Or you could glue a shorter, not too short, piece wood in there. In that case, I would fill the "gap" with laminate, as a belt and suspenders type solution the laminate would hold the compression loads even if the glue joint were to fail for some reason (tough to glue things accurately when the joint is hidden).

Oodles of options. Or get the extrusion.

As I recall, SunnyDaze is cutting a mast that broke above the top of the cuddy cabin which might make the lower section too short as a compression post even after the hinge parts are added. In that case a short section from Dwyer could be obtained as Tim suggested.

John

jeadstx wrote:As I recall, SunnyDaze is cutting a mast that broke above the top of the cuddy cabin which might make the lower section too short as a compression post even after the hinge parts are added. In that case a short section from Dwyer could be obtained as Tim suggested.

Right. I got that. There's nothing that prevents him from using something similar to what I suggested to increase the effective length without having to pay for new aluminum. Above the tabernacle, the remaining mast cares little how the compression loads are managed...just that they are.

This forum is great!

http://flic.kr/p/pPd31c

I tapped three bolts and if you look at the picture the bolts on the side are just touching the mast step area. I have considered taking the bolts out and riveting instead.

Once I upgrade the stays I'm going to take it out sailing as is and see if the rubbing is a problem.