DaySailer.org Forum

Having solved lee helm problem I noticed VERY slack lee shroud when wind increases to 10knts. Rig was tight when first rigged or when pressure eased. My first mate, chief cook and bottle-washer took up some, but not all, of slack on each side stay while sailing. When time to derig, releasing fore-stay was very difficult.
Are stays (original 3/32) stretching or does boat shape change under load? I can imagine bottom being pushed down by mast since bottom is fairly flat.
Options I can imagine:
1. Lever lock fore stay. If you haven't seen it it is a sailing version of chain tensioners that truckers use to chain down equipment.
2. 2 or 3:1 block on jib halyard.
3. Replace standing rigging with 1/8"

Any thoughts? Thanks!

i am experiencing the same, my leeward shroud is pretty slack on the windward leg even though the shrouds seem pretty tight when the boat is not sailing... i'm not too concerned about it since other boats and styles use 'looser' rigging. 'aussie style' rigs are not very tight, and my hobies have relatively loose rigs too to allow for mast rotation. the main sheet, i think, will create sufficient tension on the jibstay if/when its cranked down while beating because its trying to pull the rig down and back. the jib becomes a little fuller when the mainsheet is eased and the jibstay loses a little of its tension off the wind, so its somewhat 'self- tuning'. all this may be rationalizing my flexible old boat because i love it, but it works for me : )

I'd guess everyone here agrees that the 3/32 stays should be replaced with the 1/8 versions. I bought a set from D&R Marine, including the quick-release forestay. I've only used them once,but didn't have any problems with them.

What difference have people noticed when they replaced standing rigging?

Still deciding on new sails, vs rigging, vs seat cushions vs cup holders. Decisions, decisions, decisions....

I think it's mostly that the 3/32-inch stays tend to break and the 1/8-inch ones don't.

Alan wrote:I think it's mostly that the 3/32-inch stays tend to break and the 1/8-inch ones don't.

+1 on Alan's note!

I replaced my standing rigging over the winter just because my boat is about 40 years old and I don't know the history other than it went through some pretty tough years before I got it. I also replace the spreaders with the heavy duty version from D&R and used larger chainplate backers (homemade) per suggestions elsewhere on this board.

I'm certain my boat will never undergo the stresses discussed by many here as I'm on a smaller freshwater lake, but never-the-less, I decided to wait a year on the new sails and replace the parts that new sails will stress first. My personal thinking was, a new sail isn't as useful when your mast is down in the water.

Good Luck! - Scott

My replacement 1/8" rigging has held up well on several Tx200's.

John

Recently replaced the standing rigging with new from D&R, to include the lever lock forestay adjuster. I find I still need to use the jib halyard for tension in order to attach the forestay to the lever, in order to get the rig tension I want. This is with a mast hinge. I want as much aft rake in the mast as I can get, so I use the top hole in the lever, and crank the shroud turnbuckles down as far as I can while still being able to connect the forestay. Beating upwind in about 10 kts, this is where everything I've read says the leeward shroud should go slightly slack, and it does, so I'll keep it there for now and see how it goes ...

I find I still need to use the jib halyard for tension in order to attach the forestay to the lever, in order to get the rig tension I want. This is with a mast hinge.

Hmmmm. Same situation as yours. I ended up loosening the shroud turnbuckles a lot, and using the top hole in the lever, and then tightening the turnbuckles. My crew was not pleased with the time it took to rig the boat, so maybe I'll put the jib halyard into play. Some backyard practice wouldn't hurt, either...

Thank you all for replies. Sounds like standing rigging goes on list. This week I am rewiring trailer lights and shopping for better way to attach, remove main sheet from boom. Seems like shackle is a lost part waiting to happen at just the wrong time.

Tipster, I use this brass snap shackle on the mainsheet block connection to the boom. Easy quick connect/disconnect for setting up/taking down the rig, as well as for raising the boom for tent-cot/boomtent setup. I use these snap shackles all over the boat, and have never lost one! They're about $12 from Ronstan ...

Oooohh, nice colors. Is that from the "Pink Witch"?

What's the snap shackle rated at?

Yeah, I know, weird colors! Stuck the camera under the red cockpit cover to get the pic ...

Oh, and I called it bronze, but it's brass. I'll fix that. Max working load is 370 lbs, breaking load is 740 lbs.

Now, if this 4:1 vang, then working load corresponds to something a little less than 100lbs of pull (allowing for friction). If the vang is loaded beyond the point you can tighten it, you might be operating outside the safe working load for that part.

I mention that because just recently a similar shackle - even though stainless - failed on a friend's boat. Luckily he has a habit of bringing short bits of rope or string, so we used some as a lashing in place of the shackle so we could continue. May have even been the vang there, too, but I can't remember now.

Well, this one is on the mainsheet boom block attachment, which I doubt ever sees that high a load. But I do use one on the vang as well. Might have to put a scale on that one and see ...

I *do* know that those MWL's are pretty well "padded".

Yeah, I keep all kinds of spare stuff like that in a tote in the cuddy too. I've had to "MacGyver" a few things here and there while on the water!