DaySailer.org Forum

My CB rope frayed through and I have pulled the CB and dug out the plug. Not sure how much rope is missing, anyone know how much is needed to go up through all he pulleys on an 1984 DS2?

Thank,
Cal

Mine had 12 feet of 5/16 nylon twisted rope, but when I replaced I bought 15 feet just to be sure and will cut to fit.

Thanks. I am going to try braided rope to see if that wears better.

Cal

CENTERBOARD:
Lowering line 5/16” x 29” Dacron knot in CB recess
Control-Line ¼” x 15’ Dacron
Cable 1/8” – 7x19 Stainless-Steel wire approx. 24” long
(15 ½” between Nicropress sleeves that form loops at each end)
Shock-Cord 14” x 10 ½” (14” of cord with a loop in each end)

I got these dimensions from a diagram that Rudy (D&R Marine) gave to me, they check out with my boat.

I used 1/4" dacron braid to replace my lowering line (line attached to lower corner of CB that comes up through top of CB trunk.) It allows a bit of air to flow around the line through the "donut" and reduces any vacuum that forms inside the trunk preventing the CB from lowering. I keep my boat in the water all summer so the CB stays partway down when the boat is moored.

Has anyone tried using Amsteel line instead of the cable for centerboard control?

Sunbird - could you scan and post the diagram Rudy sent you?

My 1974 DS II CB control lines are all mounted to the cuddy deck. I have seen pictures of other boats where the lines lead to the cuddy roof, which seems to make more sense for the down control line.

The DS II had three different versions of the CB rigging over the production run. 1917-73, 1974-76, 1977-85 that last one was also used for the DS III.

kleanebore, I could post the diagram from Rudy, but it won't show how your boat is rigged, it is the later version (mid-1977-85). It would show how my boat is rigged and how it sounds like you wish to set up your boat.
Rudy gave me permission to use it in the Manual that I created, but I'm not sure how he would feel about it being posted online.[/img]

Hi all,

I have been making friends with my new DSII but about two weeks ago, I too experienced the dreaded jammed uphaul centerboard cable problem. After getting towed back to the harbor, I had a friend pull the main halyard over and tip the boat over while in the water to about a 45 degree angle. I was able to see that the ferrule on the updhaul cable was jammed tight against the side of the board. The bungee that is supposed to keep it from jamming apparently didn't have enough stretch/strength to prevent it the jam. Unfortunately, I didn't have anything thin and substantial and long enough to push against the ferrule and unjam it. It was getting late and I needed to get the boat back on the trailer, but couldn't with the cb still down. Fortunately, I did have tools available to take the cb out... so I unbolted the cb and cut the cable and uphaul line and got the board free.

After researching the issue on the forum, I came across this thread and Kleanbore's question about using Amsteel in place of the uphaul cable. I looked into getting the replacement cable but was anxious about the problem recurring and checked with my local boat shop who thought the Amsteel/Dyneema line he had would do the trick in place of the cable. I picked up 2' of Amsteel, a thimble, and some hog rings (about $6 total) and attached it to the uphaul vang. I also got new line for the uphaul.

The first two pictures in the link below show the board right after I was able to remove it; and the last three the amsteel replacement.

http://picasaweb.google.com/dbk0630/77DS2CenterboardControlRepair?feat=directlink

By pulling the board out I was able to discover a hole in the lower center of the cb that allowed water to enter the hollow portion of the board... the boatshop owner told me he's repaired several daysailers because during the winter the water freezes and splits the board. So I drilled another hole lower down on the board and drained the water out. After making sure that it was dry, I sealed the holes and repaired some other dings and dents on the board. With help from some friends, I then dry launched the boat and replaced the board. I used a bowline knot to reattach the uphaul line to cb control line.

I've been out only once since then but, so far at least, I'm pleased with the repair.

Hello,
I recently purchased an 83 DaySailer. I posted some questions at New DaySailer II Owner - Questions on 5/18/2013. I need to replace the downhaul line for the centerboard, and so I am trying to find out the correct way to do that. I have Roger Conrad's booklet, which came with the boat. His book states:

"To embed the downhaul line in the cb, ensure that the hole is well cleaned out of old epoxy. Use a drill or rotary tool to create a clean cavity to seat the terminal end of the line. Inject some epoxy with a syringe or small spatula, (popsicle stick) into the hole. Tie a simple knot in the end of the line and goop it in some epoxy then insert it into the hole. Duct tape it temporarily to prevent leaks until it is cured."

However Dave K.'s 10/3/2010 post in this thread has photos showing the knot on the CB end of the downhaul line accessable from the side of the centerboard in a horizontal hole. It looks like the knot cannot slip through vertical hole in the centerboard. Is the centerboard on an 83 DSII configured the same? If not, how far should I drill into the vertical hole to remove the old line and expoxy without damaging the centerboard?

Also, my boat has the two metal plates which hold the two wedges that secure the center board's pivot point. Do I need to remove the centerboard to replace the downhaul line. If so, can I remove it enough from under the boat trailer, if I slide the boat back about one foot the clear the roler that's under the centerboard?

Thanks,

The control lines should be the same as on DS2's with a centerboard bolt. You should be able to drop the board down enough by removing the plates you have to get at the hole to attach the the DH line. My boat has the bolt with some stuff on it that makes removing the board difficult. Also on myboat access to the bolt is thru the 4" inspection ports. I would think they went to the plates to provide better access to the centerboard. If you can postion the boat on the trailer to where you can drop the front of the board enough, you should be able to repair it.

John

Thanks

Last weekend I replaced the centerboard downhaul line with 5/16" Sta-Set. I did this without removing the centerboard from the boat. Since there is not a horizntal hole through the centerboard where the downhaul line attaches, there is no need to remove the centerboard to replace the line.

I very carefully drilled out the old downhaul line from underneath the boat. The old line had three clinching rings (hogrings) on it where it was glued into the vertical hole on the bottom of the centerboard. Since I could not tie a not in the 5/16" Sta-Set line and insert it in the hole, I crimped three hogrings on the end of the line with about 1" spacing between the hogrings. I used marine expoxy glue to secure that end of the Sta Set line into the hole in the centerboard, covered it with tape, and let it dry overnight.

The next day, removed the tape, and pulled the other end of the Sta-Set up into the boat, using a straightened coat hanger and some tape to pull yhe new line up through the downhaul line hole on the top of the centerboard housing. I secured the Sta Set line to the download block with three hogrings, and rapped those with rigging tape.

Sunday, my son and I went sailing, which was my second sail on that boat, and my first without my sailing menter. Winds were 8 mph or less, so it was a perfect day for a newbie. We had lots of fun. I made seom mistakes, but those were learning moments. All in all it was an enjoyable and successful day. I am happy.

BRAVO!

*Very* interesting!

For many months now, jeadstx and I have both been mulling over how to best accomplish CB DH replacement. Both our boats *do* have the horizontal hole, but both also have the non-wedge CB pivot bolt with the goop all over the ends, making CB removal a last resort. The horizontal hole is not accessible without doing so.

I'm curious: how confident are you that your repair is strong enough, and that the new DH line won't pull out? Sounds like you pretty much followed Roger's procedure, and I realize that there is (probably?) much less force on the DH than the UH.

Did you make any attempt to make the hole "wider as it got deeper", therefore giving the epoxy "plug" something mechanical to pull against? How deep did you make the hole? I'm assuming at least 3" if you put on 3 hog rings at 1" spacing? Also, what kind/type/brand of marine epoxy glue did you use?

Glad you're happy! Nuthin' worse than an unhappy camper, um, I mean sailor!

Any pictures of the work?

John

I attached three pictures of the new CB DH line, one in the cuddy cabin, and two underneath the boat. Please excuse tth pictures underneath the boat. One of the mistakes I made when I went sailing a week ago, was tryinng to beach the boat while waiting for powerboats ahead of me to return to the boat ramp. Turned out the bottom was muddy, not sandy.

I used 5/16" Sta-Set line, and Marine Tex Flex Set glue. I purchased both from West Marine.