Self Bailer replacement

Posted:
Wed Feb 12, 2014 8:37 pm
by Breakin Wind
Greetings all,
I stand corrected (yet again) as I've come to understand the purpose and value of a proper working self bailer and intend to replace mine before spring.
Tim Webb posted this in response to someone else's query about replacing same...
Re: Bilge water and self bailer question
Postby TIM WEBB ยป Fri Aug 16, 2013 7:27 pm
Do yourself a favor: just cut that whole mess out with a hole saw, and install a new auto-bailer. Beats smoke 'n' oakum ... 
Tim (if you're on) or anyone... does that suggest you cut a larger hole through the cockpit and hull "around" the old self-bailer so it drops out?
Or are you using a hole saw to cut off the old screw on nut? Maybe the easiest question here is, what sized hole saw?
That will more or less define what get's cut.
Thanks for any help - Scott
Re: Self Bailer replacement

Posted:
Wed Feb 12, 2014 10:47 pm
by TIM WEBB
Yes, you are correct, a self-bailer can be invaluable in some situations. Having had one might have made the difference between my completing the 2012 Fl 120, rather than bailing early (pun intended!). Installing one was one of the first things I did on the boat when I got home ...
I used a 1-1/4" hole saw. This *just* fit around the remnants of what used to be the bailer tube, of which nothing was left but a corroded stub. I sawed down all the way through and out the bottom. The old tube that popped out of the saw was very thin in places. I expected to find a void or space between the sole and hull, but it was solid, like they built up extra material around the hole. I filled the bilge with water to see if any leaked through, but it stayed dry. Just to be on the safe side, I coated the inside of the hole with a film of epoxy, and sealed the lower part of the unit to the hull with silicone, as well as the upper hexagonal flange.
Now for the disclaimer: the bailer works great, but only if the boat is level and going at least 3-4 kts. So, pretty much means running or at least reaching. Also, there needs to be a lot of water in the cockpit to get the little ball to drop down and get things flowing. Call it priming the pump I guess. But once it's draining, it empties the cockpit lickety split!
Also, the plastic unit is pretty fragile. I was anchored stern to shore overnight to a beach last year, I guess a little too close to shore, because as I was getting ready to leave, I happened to look down, and saw the lower part sitting on the bottom! The motion of the boat overnight had ground it into the sandy bottom and knocked it off. It broke the threads of the upper part right where it screws into the lower part. So, now the lower part is pretty much just glued to the hull, and I use a rubber stopper to plug the hole in the sole (Motown song?) where the upper part used to be ...
Re: Self Bailer replacement

Posted:
Thu Feb 13, 2014 8:47 am
by ChrisB
TIM WEBB wrote:I expected to find a void or space between the sole and hull, but it was solid, like they built up extra material around the hole.
I wonder how far to the sides that "extra material" extends??? Do you remember if it (the material) was wood or built up fiberglass? I'm wondering if an Elvstrom type wedge bailer could be installed there. They are completely flush to the hull surface until deployed. I had two of these on a 505 and they really move water out of the boat. Has anyone tried installing a wedge type bailer on a DS?
Re: Self Bailer replacement

Posted:
Thu Feb 13, 2014 11:47 am
by TIM WEBB
Seems like it was built up fiberglass, similar to the filler material that was used in other places between the deck and hull?
Can't tell how how far out it extends - there is some kind of baffle in the bilge immediately forward of the transom bilge drain, so when I shine a light in there, I can't see the bailer area ...
Those Elvstrom bailers *are* pretty effective. The Larsen scow I had years ago also had two of them, one on each side, so the cockpit would drain even with the boat heeled.
Re: Self Bailer replacement

Posted:
Thu Feb 13, 2014 12:48 pm
by ChrisB
Copy that. The five-oh had two as well; in the aft 1/3 of the hull each at about the level spot on the hull when heeled so it sucked out 95% of the water. It also had transom "flap" bailers and a large cutout on either side of the rudder so large volumes of water would drain out quickly.
Re: Self Bailer replacement

Posted:
Thu Feb 13, 2014 2:30 pm
by jeadstx
I'm needing to replace the bailer also. Got the part, waiting for decent weather as my boats are outside.
John
Re: Self Bailer replacement

Posted:
Tue Jun 10, 2014 11:56 am
by jkfinity
I just picked up FREE DS II couple of days ago. I really think this could be an issue with mine, but I have no clue with what you guys are talking about

I'm a Visual Learner! Any photos to go with this discussion?
Re: Self Bailer replacement

Posted:
Tue Jun 10, 2014 10:40 pm
by TIM WEBB
Could have sworn I had pix in my gallery of it, but I guess I don't. This is the part:
http://www.drmarine.com/proddetail.asp?prod=DS81There should be a hole in the stern, down through the cockpit pan and hull. Might be remnants of an old metal version there. See above posts. This item mounts there. The pic on DR isn't very helpful either, but essentially it's closed in the front and open in the rear. It draws water down and out of the cockpit thru venturi effect.