Replacing backing to coamings

[Bob Perkins]

Hi All,

New to site with a new boat (#3303)

The backing to the coaming was 6" wood blocks, with a thin layer of glass over them...

Ours were a little damp, but solid-- however - completely delaminated.

Here they are being replaced.

Cleaned out
http://daysailer3033.shutterfly.com/pictures/23


Clamped in..
http://daysailer3033.shutterfly.com/pictures/23#22

http://daysailer3033.shutterfly.com/pictures/23#21

We also pulled 103 pounds of wet foam out of the seats..
http://daysailer3033.shutterfly.com/pictures/23#10

Unfortunately the shutterfly links do not seem to render here.
This seems to be an older version of the forum software. They render on the newer version.


More to come on this boat

Can see more here: http://daysailer3033.shutterfly.com/

[K.C. Walker]

Welcome aboard! It looks like you are on the right track to have yourself a nice solid DS1. Getting the boat stiffer, as you're doing laminating behind the comings, and lightning it up by getting all that wet foam out of it will definitely make it a livelier boat.

I hope you enjoy your boat as much as I have enjoyed mine!

[ctenidae]

I've been toying iwth the idea of replacing mine, too- they do seem to just be 6" long chunks of 2x2- seems like a poor choice of materials. I was thinking of just replacing with 1x2, but haven't gotten around to considering it fully. Unlikely to start now, since I want to get her in the water sooner rather than later (recoated bottom paint this weeknd, need to do tipside touch ups next).

I notice the water line on yours- same place mine sits, water right at the top of the lower pintle (or gudgeon, I forget which is which).

[K.C. Walker]

I notice the water line on yours- same place mine sits, water right at the top of the lower pintle (or gudgeon, I forget which is which).

That's interesting, with no crew, my boat sits with the original boot stripe totally out of the water.

[GreenLake]

Unfortunately the shutterfly links do not seem to render - any suggestions?

All I can think of, the % signs make the URL too complex for use in BBCode. I've seen that before.

Why not change them to using the URL tag instead of the IMG tag, and linking the album page, like this.

http://daysailer3033.shutterfly.com/pictures/15

I the editor you'd see what is shown here in the "code" box.

Code: Select all

[url]http://daysailer3033.shutterfly.com/pictures/15[/url]

[ctenidae]

That's interesting, with no crew, my boat sits with the original boot stripe totally out of the water.

I just repainted the bottom paint on mine, and brought it up a good 2 inches above the boot stripe. I had barnacles up that high, amazingly. And never had more than a couple inches of water at the low point of the bilge just ahead of the CB trunk to sink it down.

[GreenLake]

I notice the water line on yours- same place mine sits, water right at the top of the lower pintle (or gudgeon, I forget which is which).

"Pintle" is the one that looks like a "pin". "Gudgeon" is what it goes into.

That's interesting, with no crew, my boat sits with the original boot stripe totally out of the water.

Conflicting evidence on mine. The following shows what's going on, click on the thumbnail to see the larger image:



Numbering the images in the composite clockwise from top left:

1. Fully rigged, rather high crew weight with skipper sitting at end of tiller
2. Solo, skipper sitting forward as far as reach allows
3. Fully rigged, no crew
4. Solo, skipper sitting at end of tiller
5. Fully rigged, rather high crew weight, with skipper sitting aft (fixing the bridle)
6. Fully rigged, no crew, rudder inside boat

Fully rigged includes the weight of trolling motor and battery, as well as floor boards, sails, etc.
Looks like without crew, I can get the bottom pintle fully out of the water (if sitting far forward). Any other configuration, the boat would squat a bit. Also looks like the original waterline would be correct only for a "bare" boat (with everything removed except the spars).

[Bob Perkins]

Unfortunately the shutterfly links do not seem to render - any suggestions?

All I can think of, the % signs make the URL too complex for use in BBCode. I've seen that before.

Why not change them to using the URL tag instead of the IMG tag, and linking the album page, like this.

http://daysailer3033.shutterfly.com/pictures/15

I the editor you'd see what is shown here in the "code" box.

Code: Select all

[url]http://daysailer3033.shutterfly.com/pictures/15[/url]

Thanks- I was pretty sure it was the % sign too - this particular version of the forum software is a bit older. Shutterfly links (with %) work on the newer release.. I'm sure it is a lot of work to upgrade..

[K.C. Walker]

I must say, I am a bit envious of your clamp inventory!

[Bob Perkins]

I must say, I am a bit envious of your clamp inventory!

Ok - to gloat a tiny bit.. That is just a small selection of them.
but to be fair - I worked at a Woodcraft location for a few years and collected a LOT of tools. i have boat building issues...
I'm the only guy I know that has enough clamps..

My prior project is here... http://biscayne22.shutterfly.com/

I'm working on the stringers today. We flipped the hull back last night.
Step one is grind out the old glass..
Pictures tonight..

[K.C. Walker]

Well Bob, that is one beautiful boat you built! I would almost be afraid to use it or leave it out in the sun. On the other hand, it looks like a blast to cruise! It sure would fit nicely on Lake Winnipesaukee. The lake that you have it on does look like a New England lake so I'll bet you get a lot of head turns and difficulty getting away from the dock because people want to talk to you about it. I hope you have shown it off at boat shows.

So where do you live? I want to come over and borrow some clamps! I can imagine that your take-home from Woodcraft was all in tools, good strategy.

A good friend of mine from Meredith Hampshire has a very nice old wooden "Laker" that I think is 25 feet. He does wooden boat restorations. His boat looks good but it's really his workboat so nothing like your boat. His sailboat, an O-boat, hasn't been in the water for a number of years. I sailed for a number of years with him in his wooden Snipe and the O-boat. Now he comes sailing with me in the daysailer.

I think that the DS is a great boat but I am little curious as to how you were attracted to them.

When I started grinding out the hull underneath where the stringers had rotted out on my boat I found hydrolyzed fiberglass. I ended up having to grind out quite a bit more fiberglass than I originally planned on.

I will be interested to keep up with your restoration. I'm sure that it will turn out great.

[Bob Perkins]

Hi K.C.

We keep the runabout up in Maine.
Many ask "What year is it?" Stunned when they hear 2008!

I'm just 20 min north of Boston..

I had a 23' Ranger sailboat a few years back and like sailing. My friend John is a rock star sailer (IMHO) and he knows how to race (much more than I do)

So - We both fix up the boat - I get to learn how to race Lake Quannapowitt (sp?) has a DSI fleet. So we are likely to head there for some racing.. And bring it up to the lake of course..

The underglass looks pretty good - I just ground out the first stringer..
It seems pretty solid... The boat has a bit of an indent right at the back of the CB trunk. We are going to push it out and vacuum in new stringers.

I have left over 3/8" balsa core from an old repair.. So I'm probably going to use that. The money they want for foam is crazy..

unless someone talks me into foam core..

[K.C. Walker]

unless someone talks me into foam core..

Yeah, that would be crazy! Who would ever do that? Though, if you did decide you want to, the best price I found was from Noah's Marine. If you vacuum it down and use MAS or equivalent epoxy, I doubt you'll have any future problems with balsa.

[Bob Perkins]

http://daysailer3033.shutterfly.com/pictures/26

Stringers ground out.

I need to do a couple more things before putting the replacements in. First is to cut a transom drain so I can pressure wash the inside and generally not have it fill up.

[Mike Gillum]

Your Biscayne 23 is drop dead gorgeous! Your exceptional woodworking skills will translate easily into fiberglass repair and modification of #3033.
I would lean towards foam to core the bottom of #3033 but balsa is fine so long as you make sure any future penetrations from rigging or any damage is immediately dried, sealed, and repaired otherwise the balsa will rot.
Rebel Daysailers were cored with balsa and have proven to be structurally sound long-term unless water gets into the balsa.
My DS #2772 has the same original horizontal stringers both in size and general location as #3033.
Ideally new stringers should be located between the side of the centerboard and inside edge of the side tanks as a means to stiffen the bottom of the hull though coring the hull will solve that problem.
The best configuration for the stringers should be taller than wider. They can be built using a "D" shaped piece cut from pink insulation foam readily available at Home Depot.
The foam stringer is glued to the hull using a hot glue gun and then acts only as the "form" for multiple layers of fiberglass tape to be adhered to hull over the foam stringer mold to ultimately create the actual strength.
Upside a vertical stringer is stronger for its weight than a horizontal stringer and creates an excellent "ladder rung" to use as leverage going from side to side while roll tacking.
Downside is that the vertical stringer will trap water on outboard sides and depending on your comfort level with that added weight you might want to add some drains along the bottom of the vertical stringer. And they'll trip you if you're a klutz!
If you intend to actively race #3033 you might want to consider an Andersen (formerly Elvstrom) Bailer or two in the bottom under the thwart rather than a transom plug.
#2772 has a transom plug that I'll eventually remove and plug replacing with a pair of Andersen Bailers.
A trailer with proper support is a priority! A carpeted 6" wide centerline support running the length of the keelson is paramount with a pair of carpeted 6" wide side supports running the length of the side tanks and centered under the vertical edge of the side tanks is paramount.
The pair of side supports should be about an 1/8" lower than the centerline support so that all the weight of the boat is carried there and the side supports keep your Daysailer from "capsizing" on the trailer when you get in or out of it.
If you go to all of the trouble of restoring #3033 and the trailer isn't correct then your work is wasted in the long run.