wood spacers between seat and keel housing
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wood spacers between seat and keel housing
by bruce » Tue Jun 28, 2011 4:53 pm
i have a DS-1 that has lost the 2 pieces of wood between seat and keel....anybody know the length of these pieces ?.....seaboots2001@yahoo.com
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by GreenLake » Tue Jun 28, 2011 5:39 pm
Welcome to the forum.
First off, the parts you are interested in are called "thwarts" (and under that name you can search whether they have been discussed here before). And it's technically not a "keel housing" but a centerboard trunk. But those are mere words
Anyway, they are very necessary for overall hull stability, and to brace the centerboard trunk against the forces of a fully loaded centerboard.
On my boat they are not rectangles, but the side toward the seats is angled a bit. Somewhere between 14 1/2 to 15 inches. What you'd do, is cut a blank at 15" and then shape the side toward the seat so that it fits the pre-molded depression.
On my boat, the two thwarts are not identical. I have no reason to believe that they are other than factory original, so they may well have been "fit" to size when the boat was built.
Make sure your CB trunk is vertical after fitting (sighting it against the mast should do).
Forgot to measure the thickness, seems like it's 3/4" or close to. You want to be able to stand on them without giving it a thought. I think they are a bit tapered to fit the depression in the seats so everything is flush.
First off, the parts you are interested in are called "thwarts" (and under that name you can search whether they have been discussed here before). And it's technically not a "keel housing" but a centerboard trunk. But those are mere words
Anyway, they are very necessary for overall hull stability, and to brace the centerboard trunk against the forces of a fully loaded centerboard.
On my boat they are not rectangles, but the side toward the seats is angled a bit. Somewhere between 14 1/2 to 15 inches. What you'd do, is cut a blank at 15" and then shape the side toward the seat so that it fits the pre-molded depression.
On my boat, the two thwarts are not identical. I have no reason to believe that they are other than factory original, so they may well have been "fit" to size when the boat was built.
Make sure your CB trunk is vertical after fitting (sighting it against the mast should do).
Forgot to measure the thickness, seems like it's 3/4" or close to. You want to be able to stand on them without giving it a thought. I think they are a bit tapered to fit the depression in the seats so everything is flush.
~ green ~ lake ~ ~
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by itsermam » Wed Jun 29, 2011 1:17 pm
Just rebuilt my thwarts. Thickness is equal to 4/4 Philippine Mahogany (7/8"?). Lengths vary and are not symmetrical or square, but both were under 15". Mine required compound curves at seat end to fit, and I found the best way was to start by routing half round on the sides and quarter round at the butt end and then using course sanding to get proper shape on end and sides. It took some time but the fit is good.
Good luck with your project!
Good luck with your project!
DS I #3056
- itsermam
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- Joined: Sat Mar 27, 2010 11:36 pm
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by GreenLake » Thu Jun 30, 2011 3:05 am
Like he says.
There's no tapering in thickness, but the bottom seat-side edge is rounded into something like a quarter circle, to fit the same curve in the molded in depression in the seat tanks.
Forward and aft edge of the thwarts are rounded (half-round), all other edges are square or nearly square.
To make the transition between these rounded edges and the molded in depression (which has straight edges) there's a bit of tapering in width. The round part of the fore/aft edges are filed off for about 1" on the side closest to the seat.
I found my screws had stripped the holes in the seat. Remedy: coat screws in floor wax. Drip some thickened epoxy into the holes, insert screw. The epoxy will cure into a perfect set of threads around the screw, while the wax will allow the screw to be removed later.
There's no tapering in thickness, but the bottom seat-side edge is rounded into something like a quarter circle, to fit the same curve in the molded in depression in the seat tanks.
Forward and aft edge of the thwarts are rounded (half-round), all other edges are square or nearly square.
To make the transition between these rounded edges and the molded in depression (which has straight edges) there's a bit of tapering in width. The round part of the fore/aft edges are filed off for about 1" on the side closest to the seat.
I found my screws had stripped the holes in the seat. Remedy: coat screws in floor wax. Drip some thickened epoxy into the holes, insert screw. The epoxy will cure into a perfect set of threads around the screw, while the wax will allow the screw to be removed later.
~ green ~ lake ~ ~
- GreenLake
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- Joined: Mon Jun 18, 2007 3:54 am
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