I mentioned some of the details of that in another thread, which I will quote below for context.
Enough time has elapsed for the results to be evaluated for durability, so I will add some evaluation in the next post.
I've been experimenting with large-scale application of gelcoat. (Evercoat hi-bond, white, with wax).
... Gelcoat is applied in a much thicker layer than paint, and is also more durable. It can be tinted, there are special tints that are sold, but as far as I can tell, a few drops of universal tinting agent (the one compatible with oil paints) seem to work just as well. It takes very little to get a nice gray color for a floor.
The thing about gelcoat is that by nature, it does not cure in the presence of oxygen. So you can get it with wax mixed in which will create a thin layer allowing the gelcoat to cure. That's not always perfect, so you get something called PVA, a liquid that you can spray (you may need to get one of the paint sprayers with a gas cartridge) on top of the gelcoat to improve curing. ...
You can apply the gelcoat by brush, roller or just squeegee it on. For the floor, especially if your laminate is rough, you may not care about achieving a perfectly smooth surface, just a durable one. I only had a pint, which was enough to do the area from cuddy to aft of CB on both sides, and it's nicely uniform now and sealed many places where laminate had been exposed by something scraping on the floor.
I would recommend to fill any deeper gouges first - to remain chemically compatible, something like 3M high strength marine filler which is polyester based. (If you are careful to wash off any amine blush with soapy water and then scuff sand, gelcoat should bond to a bit of epoxy repair as well).
I know of professionals who will re-gelcoat a deck, so that can be done, but I might hesitate doing that only because of the higher quality of the job expected for a deck: it has to just look good and I'm not as sure my technique is up to that. But for the floor, I wouldn't hesitate.
Update on the gelcoat experiment.
I've now done the rear third of the cockpit (between the seats). It had everything from exposed laminate to several layers of failed paint (plus drips from decades ago when the seats were painted). I mixed 10oz of white gelcoat (with wax!) with a few dollops of black tinting agent to get a basic medium gray. After adding 12 drops of catalyst / oz, and mixing well, I dumped all of it into the cockpit and used a spreader to distribute.
As an extra precaution, I sprayed a thin film of mold release using one of those paint sprayers with disposable cartridges.
Result is a bit rough in places but if I want "really nice" I have a set of floorboards to cover it up. As it appears at quick check, no problem with curing and it looks so much better than before. I'd have to work on my technique a bit before trying a deck or surface like that, but because the underlying surface was never totally smooth to begin with, "perfection" wasn't an option but "durability" is a goal. Gelcoat, because it cures by catalyst, can be applied in thicker layers than paint and I'm pretty confident that I'm not going to wear through this new coating.
The question remains what I'm going to do with CB trunk and the less critical areas of the cockpit (such as upper ends of cuddy walls and some of the transom areas). I'll probably extend the gelcoat in all places that can end up with standing water anytime a tarp fails and use paint for the remainder. The CB trunk has failing/flaking paint on it today, in the cuddy, protected from UV, the old paint is in very good shape, except that it's now a slightly different color. My conclusion is that with some practice and good gelcoat (like Evercoat premium one step which I used today) gelcoat can be an alternative to painting the cockpit floor.
I ended up doing the CB trunk, and a bit of the cuddy walls above the level of the floor boards, but stopped there.