Picture of DSII centerboard downhaul

[TIM WEBB]

Joe, does your CB bolt have the "goop" all over the ends of it like mine and jeadstx's has?

BTW, I think you are talking about your CB uphaul, not downhaul ...

[joehalsted]

Well, the downhaul makes it go down, right? Uphaul brings it in - so my issue is the downhaul - got new wire & blocks at West Marine - will try to fish it in today. Failing that I'm gonna cut the top of the CB trunk off so I can service the connections and replace it with a removable strip of varnished teak. Oh - my bolts are just a tad rusty (30+ years in a cowbarn) - no goop.

[TIM WEBB]

Well, the downhaul makes it go down, right? Uphaul brings it in - so my issue is the downhaul - got new wire & blocks at West Marine - will try to fish it in today. Failing that I'm gonna cut the top of the CB trunk off so I can service the connections and replace it with a removable strip of varnished teak. Oh - my bolts are just a tad rusty (30+ years in a cowbarn) - no goop.

Sorry, but in the earlier post you mentioned "the cable that attaches to the rear upper corner of the CB", which would be the uphaul ... ?

Downhaul attaches to the forward edge of the board.

No goop = lucky you!

[joehalsted]

Well with poor old SunnyDaze hauled over on the beach, wife sitting on the mast top, and with some clever 'redneck engineering' we did get a temporary cable re-attached so we can sail the rest of this season - long term 'fix' without removing the board will be a removable 'inspection hatch' cut into the top of the CB trunk - screwed in place - so the cables can be serviced & replaced.

[jeadstx]

I don't think an inspection port of some kind in the top of the CB trunk will work, although I could be wrong. I thought about the same thing and made up drawings in CAD to figure out the best way and placement. Couldn't find a way to access both the uphaul and downhaul easily. Then of course there is the double hull to deal with on the upper half of the CB trunk. Also, you are indeed lucky you don't have the CB bolt goop that Tim and I have.

John

[joehalsted]

The screws for the uphaul cable are accessible when the board is down (boat heeled over). Downhaul only accessible from the top rear of the board so the inspection hole needs not be very big ~ thinking 2" wide X 6" long.

[Tipster1]

Having confirmed that my difficult CB raising is caused mostly by the early design of my DSII with no mechanical advantage and maybe some dirt, I am considering installing a 2:1 block between down haul and cuddy top as has been described and pictured in posts regarding later DSIIs.

Given all possible options, what is the best way to attach a block to ceiling of cuddy? I noticed a transverse cross brace in nearby locations, but I don't know if it solid so that I can attach with ss wood screws, or hollow, in which case I might drill through and place some sort of anchor. Or do I go for cuddy roof or upper edge of bulkhead.

I am also open to suggestions for mounting turning block on CB trunk inside cuddy to bring line out into cocptit.

Tim's photos seem to show small screws (and bolted invisible strap?) in top of aft edge of cuddy while Shaun's boat show something protruding through back of top of cuddy.

If easiest, please feel free to PM me.

Thanks,

Mark

[joehalsted]

Well, it's very evident that the DS 2 had alot of different centerboard uphaul rigs in different years. Mine is attached to the CB with a stainless padeye screwed into the very top of the CB (where it's inaccessable unless the board is removed). From there a 30 inch 3/32 wire runs over a brass block to a 3-pull line to the center boom main sheet pulley. The failure of this system is there is no 'give' if the board hits the beach before it's raised ~ which the former owner apparently did enough times to cause the 3/32 cable to part at the CB end.

OH WOE

With the boat beached and hauled over we used an electrician's 'fish' to run a new 3/32 cable through the old cable padeye ~ then using the 'fish' we got it back through the hole in the top of the CB trunk (wphew). I then crimped in a new padeye (parts from Amazon.com) and replaced the 3/8 dacron line with shock cord (so when I hit an underwater obstruction the CB downhall will yeild w/o breaking the cable.

Winter project is to remove the CB and attach a proper crimped and padeye 30" 3/32 cable to the CB top.

While fixing this, SUNNY DAZE (35 year+ old Barn Find looking like new) has been parked at the largest boat rental dock in San Diego. Every renter of their Catalina 16.5 Keelboats has begged to rent my DS2 (sorry, guys - private boat owned by a charter captain).

[Tipster1]

Thanks for taking time to reply, Joe.

I am sorry to have misspoken - my problem is with CB lowering, not raising, so my questions have to do with rigging a lowering line (down-haul) not raising line (up-haul).

(It looks like raising the board has always been rigged the same way on DSIIs.)

If I understand your post, your down-haul was a wire cable that went from front, top of CB through top of trunk and was attached to a Dacron line with out any blocks under cuddy roof. I can reach and examine this point from under boat on trailer when CB is retracted. Fortunately, it is intact, but my boat has a dacron line running all the way from cockpit to this point.

Mark

[SUNBIRD]

The DS II used at least 3 setups for the centerboard controls, 1971-74, 1974-76, and 1976-85. That is what my research has found and the diagrams and pictures are in the Expanded Owners Manual that i have created (with a bit of help from Rudy at D&R).

1974-76 version, used until October 1976.

1975_CB controls.jpg (72.23 KiB) Viewed 17280 times

I'll need to send another reply to add more pictures.

[SUNBIRD]

Diagrams: (I hope!)

Interestingly, Rudy was unaware of the 1974-76 version..... but I had an owner of a 1976 model tell me that neither diagram that I gave him matched his boat...... a little research lead to the revised drawing for those years and I made sure to get a copy to Rudy.

[SUNBIRD]

Hi klb67 and welcome.



Here is a pic of a DS2 CB layout, but other than that I'm not sure what year it represents. I have a 1973 DS2 and my CB downhaul exits out of the top of the CB trunk about where this pic shows the cam cleat bases. If my CB ever gets stuck I stick a 3/8" x 24" aluminum rod down thru the downhaul exit and push the CB out of the trunk.

That would be a 1980-85 vintage setup based on hte CB pivot pin being inserted from below and held in by a pair of wedges (virtually all O'DAY CBs were fitted that way at that time, except the Widgeon and Javelin).

[TIM WEBB]

My '79 (XDY10099M79L-D) has the same arrangement as the cutaway drawing shows, but no wedges, just the through-bolt. Had the UH jam last Fall (my fault - was doing some testing of a possible "bungy DH system" - EPIC FAIL!), and found that I could access/replace both UH and DH lines with the boat careened, but w/o the need for CB removal. This much to my relief, as the CB bolt ends are covered in some kind of nuclear-winter-proof goop that makes CB removal impossible ...

[SUNBIRD]

All that "goop" that so many owners are mentioning was not original, might be a previous owner's mis-guided attempt to stop a leaking CB bolt. D&R Marine sells replacement washer/gaskets, I know mine were pretty squished after 34 years last Summer and I had a persistant leak. Fixed temporarily by squeezing some sealant between rubber washers and CB trunk sides, added some cotton string as well to add a bit of thickness (and what the heck, also slipped a hose washer over the bolt to fit between hte SS washer and hte rubber gasket/washer on one side.....anything to get more thickness!). The basic problem that I had was that I had run out of thread on hte bolt, couldn't tighten it enough t oseal. Rudy advises using petroleum jelly between rubber washers and CB trunk sides, but I've had good luck with silicone sealant usually.
Just bought a pair of new gasket washers a couple of weeks ago, dry-fit them last Saturday and plan to finish the job (add sealant and tighten the bolt) as soon as it gets a bit warmer! I actully decided to leave the old washers in place and just insert the new ones between the old ones and the sides of the CB trunk...... again, anything to increase thickness. (Oh, but I did remove that hose washer <GRIN!>)

The DS II CB was held in by a thru-bolt from 1971-79 and the wedge setup was phased in in 1980 models. CB in the 1971-79 models actually pivots on a plastic bushing that the bolt goes through, bushing is supposed to be slightly longer than the CB is thick so that as yo utighten the bolt it wil lclamp against the bushing, not the CB, allowing the CB to still easily pivot. Some boats have lost that bushing at sometime in their history and owners then report problems getting CB t ogo up and downdue to the bolt squeezing the trunk against the CB.

[Alan]

Speaking of centerboard leaks, a previous owner of my 1980 DSII (that's it in the photo of the1980-1985 centerboard wedges) apparently thought that the water getting into the bilge was leaking past the threads of the wedge bolts, and smeared on car body filler to seal them.

The wedge bolts aren't the source of the water in the bilge, at least on my boat.

The last two times I've sailed, the boat took on about eight inches of water in within a couple of hours of sailing. Overnight in the marina, it didn't take on any more water. I pumped it out, went sailing, and again had about eight inches of water in the bilge. I towed the boat home with water in in it. At home on the trailer, the water level in the bilge didn't drop at all and there wasn't any wetness around the wedge bolt threads.

All this leads me to believe that water is getting into the bilge through the notorious uphaul line holes, which are visible in the cutaway that jdoorly posted. There's a fix for that, which has been talked about on at least one other thread, and which is as the top of my to-do list before the next aadventure.