Help identify what this hardware was used for

[BillT]

I recently acquired this 1972 DSII for the low, low price of $0.00 (freebie), with trailer and all rigging. I posted about it a few days ago. It was very grungy and I cleaned it up (still just a wee bit more to do on that front, but it's hugely improved from what it was).

Now I'm taking stock of the mast and boom and all the hardware, and I'm finding a few pieces that I'm not sure what they're there for.

First - it seems that a previous owner built and installed this traveler athwart the centerboard trunk, so evidently, he revised the main sheet rigging from the factory standard.

traveler.jpg (296.27 KiB) Viewed 804 times

Right at the aft end, on both sides, there are these small cheek blocks, two on each side:

aft cheek blocks.jpg (347.55 KiB) Viewed 804 times

I'm thinking that these were used for the main sheet in its original configuration, and perhaps they are no longer used, since he re-rigged the main sheet ... ?

Next up are these mystery lines - one on each side, passing through a hole in the side deck right next to the cabin, passing into the cabin, and then through a hole in the aft bulkhead of the cabin, and to a cam cleat - I have circled them in red:

unknown lines.jpg (446.06 KiB) Viewed 804 times

This forum allows only four photos per post, so I will continue in the next reply to this.

[BillT]

Next up is the mast.

At the head of the mast, there is a small cheek block, which I'm assuming they added for a topping lift, which makes perfect sense; at least that's what I intend to use it for. But on the other side of the mast, there is a small tang of sorts, possibly broken?

mast head.jpg (431.23 KiB) Viewed 803 times

mystery tang.jpg (494.95 KiB) Viewed 803 times

Don't know what that might have been for. Broken mounting bracket for a windex?


And then, farther down the mast, there are a couple small cheek blocks - one is located right near the tangs for the shrouds and forestay, and one is located right near the spreader hounds.

mystery block 1.jpg (391.96 KiB) Viewed 803 times

mystery block 2.jpg (413.26 KiB) Viewed 803 times

Don't know what those might have been for.

Moving on to the next reply with a couple more items...

[BillT]

Finally (for now), I'm assuming that these two mounts in the cabin bulkhead might be the vestiges of hiking straps? And they would have attached to this ring at the transom?

hiking strap mounts.jpg (338.09 KiB) Viewed 803 times

hiking strap mount aft.jpg (282.65 KiB) Viewed 803 times

I greatly appreciate any helpful info and insight anyone can lend! Thanks!

[GreenLake]

First - it seems that a previous owner built and installed this traveler athwart the centerboard trunk, so evidently, he revised the main sheet rigging from the factory standard.

This forum allows only four photos per post, so I will continue in the next reply to this.

That limitation is useful, it's much easier to respond in a focused way to just one hardware item.

That traveler seems to be a fine piece of kit. I would replace the control lines and the mainsheet (if either set is halfway serviceable, you can postpone that until after your maiden voyage). If you find, after sailing the boat, that the traveler is in the way, you can always change either back to the original Crosby rig, or keep the center boom sheeting, but add a powerful van for vang sheeting.

For running rigging see the thread on "Rope for various lines".

[GreenLake]

Right at the aft end, on both sides, there are these small cheek blocks, two on each side:

aft cheek blocks.jpg

I'm thinking that these were used for the main sheet in its original configuration, and perhaps they are no longer used, since he re-rigged the main sheet ... ?

Not a bad guess. The two standup blocks, the inner pair, so to speak, are indeed most likely for an original traveler in end-boom sheeting. You can remove them, if you feel like it, or leave it until you're sure you like sailing with the traveler.

However, the second (outer) pair of blocks are most likely for the spinnaker sheets. Your boat seems to have been set up for the symmetric spinnaker. See "How to Rig and Fly a Spinnaker".

I know your stated aim is just to potter about in a boat, but while my (beer can) racing friends were the ones that pushed me in to trying it out, I now routinely use it when cruising. I like to set things up so at least one leg is downwind (yes, at times both), so I get a lot of opportunities. And as crazy as it sounds with all the sheets and lines, it's not that hard to singlehand.

Next up are these mystery lines - one on each side, passing through a hole in the side deck right next to the cabin, passing into the cabin, and then through a hole in the aft bulkhead of the cabin, and to a cam cleat - I have circled them in red...

First, what you haven't circled. These are special hooks that you can hook the spinnaker guy through. You may know that, but just in case and for anyone curious about, but not experienced with symmetric spinnakers: the spinnaker has no tack, but two clews. These are each connected to a line lead aft to the blocks you found. The leeward one is used just as you expect, and called "sheet". The windward one is called the guy and is first lead through a jaw on the spinnaker pole, then hooked through that little hook, and from there to the block at the stern. The little hook changes the angle to be more downward, which helps the guy do its job which is to control the angle of the spinnaker pole.

At each gybe, the pole is brought over and the role of guy and sheet are switched. That's the reason you only have a hook for the guy and not a fixed eye, because you need to unhook it when it becomes a sheet.

The two mystery lines are called "twings". They should end in a ring through which the spinnaker sheets are lead. You can use them to pull down on the sheets a bit to make for a better angle. Booth the hooks and the twings are some of the more "advanced" spinnaker controls. If you are new to flying a spinnaker, you can get by without them, but after you have the basics down, you might want to experiment to see whether you can get them to work for you.

I would not recommending removing them, definitely not the hooks. I would recommend you try out a spinnaker, if your sail inventory has one, or even go out and get one, if not. If you don't have a spinnaker pole, you an make your own.

All this hardware makes it look like the boat was sailed by someone serious. If you don't already have the experience/knowledge, just leave some of the advanced controls alone at first, but trust me, it'll be more fun over the years to figure out how to use them and to get good at it. In the meantime, here's a recap of which controls are the most basic ones.

[GreenLake]

At the head of the mast, there is a small cheek block, which I'm assuming they added for a topping lift, which makes perfect sense; at least that's what I intend to use it for. But on the other side of the mast, there is a small tang of sorts, possibly broken?

Don't know what that might have been for. Broken mounting bracket for a windex?

Yes to both. Windex mount is likely, but mine looks different. However, there are many models. Remove and add mount for your Windex.

[GreenLake]

..farther down the mast, there are a couple small cheek blocks - one is located right near the tangs for the shrouds and forestay, and one is located right near the spreader hounds.

First, these are not "cheek blocks". A "cheek block" is one mounted flush to the surface, like the one for the topping lift. These are all ordinary single blocks that are attached to eye straps. With and without a swivel.

The one above the forestay is for the spinnaker halyard, the one directly below is for the jib halyard. The lower one is for the spinnaker pole uphaul. I don't have a block there on my boat, because I'm using a bungee for an uphaul, which adjusts itself based on tension in the downhaul. Even if you like to follow my way of rigging the pole, you can keep the block, because most likely you'd want to double a thinner bungee anyway to get the right tension, so you could just loop through it.

Unless any of them are stiff, even after rinsing and perhaps using a bit of dry (!) lubricant, I would not automatically replace them.

The spinnaker one has a swivel, which is important so any twist in the sail doesn't twist the halyard.

[GreenLake]

I'm assuming that these two mounts in the cabin bulkhead might be the vestiges of hiking straps? And they would have attached to this ring at the transom?

My assessment as well. It corroborates the evidence that this boat was sailed by someone serious.

[BillT]

I would replace the control lines and the mainsheet (if either set is halfway serviceable, you can postpone that until after your maiden voyage).

The few lines that remained were in extremely rough shape, so yesterday, I ordered replacements for everything - main sheet, jib sheet, main halyard, jib halyard, boom outhaul, cunningham... I'm feeling pretty unhesitant in spending money on this boat, since I got it for free.

[BillT]

These are special hooks that you can hook the spinnaker guy through.

Ah. I actually had the thought that maybe some of this stuff was for a spinnaker.

The windward one is called the guy and is first lead through a jaw on the spinnaker pole, then hooked through that little hook, and from there to the block at the stern.

And then ...? To a cam cleat somewhere? There are two of them on the coaming - one on each side, just ahead of the traveler, and I have yet to determine what they were for. Perhaps for the spinnaker sheet and guy?

That's the reason you only have a hook for the guy and not a fixed eye, because you need to unhook it when it becomes a sheet.

Makes perfect sense. I was curious why that little hook was open on one side and had a little rubber nipple in the opening.

I would not recommending removing them, definitely not the hooks.

I'm not pulling any hardware off yet, other than that which is so damaged as to be in need of replacement. If I remove anything, it would only leave holes that need to be filled! As I've said, I figure I'll mess about with the boat for a while and then later decide/determine what, if anything I need to modify/replace/repair, as I go.

I would recommend you try out a spinnaker, if your sail inventory has one, or even go out and get one, if not. If you don't have a spinnaker pole, you an make your own.

Thanks! Yes, the boat did come with a spinnaker. I have never flown one myself. As I mess about with this boat and become more comfortable with it and find where its (and my) limits are, before getting more "aggressive".

Thanks for all the info!

[GreenLake]

I think you found the cleats. I fly my spinnaker a lot in not very strong winds and don't rely on cleats very much. Usually, you would cleat the guy more than the sheet. Read the thread I linked, to fly the spinnaker is different from flying a jib in that you generally adjust the sheet continuously to where the luff of the spinnaker (whichever edge is more windward) just slightly curls.

Not to hard to figure out; pick a day of moderate winds, enough to fill the sail and give you feedback, but weak enough so you don't have to work at anything. Position yourself upwind of a longish stretch of water and let fly. If the winds aren't strong, they will be forgiving if you don't get sail and pole into the correct place, but will let you know when it's working.

I often pick a dead downwind course first, and let the spinnaker fly without a pole for a bit. That gives you a good feel for the way this sail works. holding one sheet in each hand. Just don't let the boat turn into an accidental gybe; however, a controlled gybe is fine, and without a pole you can immediately fly the spinnaker on the other side.

Next thing to try is to mount the pole and head a bit away from dead downwind (remember the pole is on the upwind side). A deep reach, where the pole is extended 45 degrees forward is a good place to play with spinnaker trim. As long as the winds are just strong enough to fill your sail, there's no worries about stuff getting out of control, even if you mess something up.

The feedback from boat and spinnaker is so much more immediate on a DS than on a keelboat that you will develop a feel for how to fly the spinnaker fairly quickly. Just remember, you need to constantly trim or the spinnaker will collapse, or, conversely, not give you the full power.

It's a lot of fun, as long as you pick winds that match your skill level and experience. If fully believe you should be able to work this out for yourself with help of reading some explanation, or, if that's your style, see if you can find a video.

But, yes, your first trips should be just with the white sails.

Have fun! That boat of yours looks like it was equipped to be sailed well, take that as a challenge!